Eugene G

The wind was very hard this day but it was incredible jorney! This is a spectacular loop that perfectly captures the dramatic transition from the urban basin of Podgorica to the rugged, high-altitude karst landscapes of the Kuči region. At approximately 60 kilometers with over 1,200 meters of climbing, it’s a challenging but rewarding journey through some of the most significant historical and natural landmarks in eastern Montenegro. The ride begins with a steady climb toward Omerbožovići, where the city noise quickly fades, replaced by expansive views of the Zeta plain. As you push toward Fundina, you enter an area steeped in history. This village was the site of the famous Battle of Fundina in 1876, a pivotal moment in Montenegrin history. The air here is noticeably cooler, with forests shaded reprieve before the more exposed sections of the ascent. One of the true "hidden gems" of this route is the viewing platform on the big stone. Equipped with a ladder, this natural pedestal offers a dizzying perspective of both the capital city and the distant shimmer of Skadar Lake. It’s arguably one of the best spots for photography before reaching the high pass. As you crest the mountain pass near Konoba Stara Pjesma, the landscape shifts again. The descent toward Delaj reveals the sheer scale of the Cijevna (Cem) River canyon. The Delaj panorama point is legendary, offering a vertical look down into the turquoise waters of the canyon floor. The return leg through Selište and Dinoša follows the rim of the canyon. You’ll witness the descent concludes at the stony beaches of the Cijevna River. These riverbanks are famous for their unique rock formations, smoothed and carved into otherworldly shapes by centuries of fast-flowing water. It’s the perfect place to rest your legs and cool off before the final flat stretch back into the city.

It was loooooong ride and really hard but it worth it! This high-altitude loop is one of the most diverse technical rides in the region, connecting the southern coastal ridges with the rugged interior of the Rumija massif. Over the course of the route, the terrain shifts from Mediterranean olive groves to dense pine forests and eventually to the stark, white limestone karst characteristic of Montenegro's high peaks. The Southern Ascent: From Dobra Voda to Lisinj The journey begins with a climb away from the coastal humidity of Dobra Voda. As you ascend the Brakanovići serpentines, the Adriatic horizon expands significantly. This section is dominated by the Lisinj peak (1,353m), Rumija's prominent neighbor. The Dubrava and Dapčevići viewpoints offer a "bird’s-eye" look at the southern beaches before the pavement ends and the trail enters the deep forest. The High Plateau: Veliki Mikulići and Rumija Reaching the high mountain plateau near Veliki Mikulići, you enter a region of immense cultural and natural importance. This village is a historic crossroads for local pilgrims. The views here shift toward the dramatic northern face of Mount Rumija (1,594m). Near the trailhead to the summit, you'll pass the Monastery of St. Sergius of Radonezh, a serene mountain retreat. The descent from here toward Bijela Skala offers views of the rugged "White Rock" formations that define the ridge. The Historical Descent: Stari Bar and Canyons The return leg takes you near Tuđemili, a site of great historical significance (the location of the 1042 Battle of Tuđemili). As you drop lower, the landscape softens into the ancient olive groves of Stari Bar, some of which house trees over 2,000 years old. The route also explores the perimeter of the Rikavac Canyon, where hidden waterfalls and small mountain lakes provide a refreshing contrast to the dry mountain air. The ride concludes with a scenic coastal stretch past Crvena Plaža (Red Beach), known for its unique reddish pebbles and pine-fringed shore.

It was an epic ride! I was 1 minute late to a back train due to a tire puncture, but thanks God, trains in Montenegro do not follow to its schedule ;) The journey begins not on the saddle, but on the rhythmic tracks of the Montenegrin railway. To start this adventure, you should head to the Podgorica station and check the "Redni voz" (national train) schedule for an early departure toward Bar. This 45-minute transit is a scenic overture in itself, crossing the Vranjina bridge where the lake’s white water lilies often stretch as far as the eye can see. Once you roll off the train in the coastal air of Bar, you are at the gateway to a classic Mediterranean-to-Alpine transition. This logistics strategy is particularly effective because the route eventually concludes in the lakeside village of Virpazar, which is a primary stop on the same railway line. This allows for a seamless, vehicle-free return trip to the capital, making it an ideal choice for cyclists who value both physical endurance and environmental harmony. Leaving the modern port of Bar behind, you immediately begin to climb toward the historical heart of the region. The air here smells of salt and ancient wood as you pass the world-renowned Stara Maslina, a titan of nature that has stood for over 2,240 years. To your left, the massive limestone silhouette of Mount Rumija begins to dominate the horizon. Rumija is a mountain of myth and spirit, standing 1,594 meters tall and serving as a sacred site where, according to tradition, a cross is carried to the summit every year in a communal pilgrimage that unites different faiths. As you pedal upward, the ruins of the Stari Bar Fortress loom like a stone crown on the cliffs, offering a final glimpse of the Venetian and Ottoman architecture that defines this coastal crossroads before the road enters the wilder, more secluded highlands. The road continues its steady, demanding pulse as you enter the Loška Mountains, the rugged southern extension of the Rumija range. In this section, the landscape becomes more austere and dramatic, with white limestone cliffs contrasting sharply against the deep blue of the distant Adriatic. Reaching the Stegvaš Pass is the defining moment of the day, as you stand on a geographical knife-edge between two completely different worlds. Looking back toward the south, the coastline stretches toward the Albanian border and the Bojana river delta. Looking forward, the world suddenly transforms into the emerald and sapphire expanse of the Skadar Lake National Park. This park is one of Europe’s largest bird reserves and a Ramsar site of international importance, where the "Accursed Mountains" or Prokletije range of Albania rise in the far distance like a jagged, snow-capped wall of white teeth. Descending from the pass, you enter the "Southern Shore" of Lake Skadar, a place where history is anchored directly in the water. The lake is home to a legendary archipelago of monastery-islands that served as the spiritual and cultural centers of the medieval Balšić and Crnojević dynasties. From the winding road, you can spot Starčeva Gorica, the oldest of these retreats, founded in the 1370s by the hermit Father Makarije. Nearby lies the island of Beška, which hosts the 14th-century Church of St. George and the Church of the Mother of God, the latter built as a final resting place for the noblewoman Jelena Balšić. Further along, the island of Moračnik stands out with its distinctive three-conched church and a massive defensive tower, a testament to a time when these holy sites also served as bastions against regional invasions. The road now weaves through the picturesque and traditional villages of Ostros and Martići, where life follows the slow rhythm of the seasons and the mountain. These settlements are famous for their hospitality and the small roadside stands where you can buy wild mountain tea, dark chestnut honey, and local sage. You soon enter the spectacular chestnut forests of Kostanjica, which feel like a living museum. These are not merely woods but ancient groves of massive, gnarled trees, some of which are over 500 years old, creating a cool, emerald-green tunnel that provides much-needed relief on warm days. This region is a botanical treasure, and during the spring months, the mountain slopes are often decorated with a vibrant carpet of wild flowers. This is also the territory of the famous "Goat Blockade," where local herds frequently claim the center of the road, forcing cyclists to pause and appreciate the wilder side of Montenegrin rural life. As you approach the final stretch toward Virpazar, the road hugs the lake’s edge more closely, eventually revealing the ruined fortifications of Grmožur Island. Known historically as the "Montenegrin Alcatraz," this small stone fortress was used as a prison for non-swimmers during the reign of King Nikola, as the surrounding deep waters and treacherous currents made escape nearly impossible. The lake in this area is a vibrant, moving ecosystem where rare Dalmatian Pelicans glide over floating carpets of water chestnuts. The descent into the village offers a breathtaking finale, especially in the late afternoon when the sun hits the water at an angle that turns the entire lake into a sheet of liquid silver, framed by the dark silhouettes of the surrounding Dinaric Alps. Your journey ends in the charming stone village of Virpazar, the historic gateway to the Crmnica wine region. This is the perfect place to settle into a lakeside konoba and reward your day's effort with a glass of Vranac, a deep, ruby-red wine native to these specific sun-drenched hills. It is best paired with traditional smoked carp or bleak caught directly from the lake waters you just traveled alongside. With the Virpazar train station located just a few minutes of easy pedaling from the village center, you can comfortably load your bike for the return trip to Podgorica, reflecting on a day spent traversing the magnificent divide between the ancient olive groves of the coast and the holy islands of the great lake.

This 23km loop is a high-reward ride that leaves the urban center to explore the eastern outskirts of Podgorica. The route is largely flat but rich in atmosphere, transitioning from the narrow streets of the Old Town to the wide-open views of the Prokletije mountains. The highlight is the village of Dinoša, home to a "miracle" of nature and a dramatic canyon crossing. Sahat Kula (The Clock Tower) Standing 16 meters tall, this tower was built in 1667 by Adži-paša Osmanagić. It is the heart of Stara Varoš (the Old Town) and one of the few structures to survive the devastating carpet-bombing of Podgorica during WWII. For centuries, it was the only public clock in the city. The bell was brought from Italy, and until recently, the tower was the tallest structure in the capital, used as a guard post to watch for fires and approaching enemies. The Gushing Water Tree (Dinoša Mulberry) This is one of the world’s rarest botanical sights. During the rainy season (late autumn or spring), water literally gushes out of the trunk of this ancient mulberry tree, turning it into a living fountain. The tree sits on top of a natural underground spring. When heavy rains create high pressure in the karst channels below, the water is forced upward through the hollow core of the tree’s trunk and out through a hole several feet above the ground. The Prokletije Mountain Backdrop From the fields around the "Gushing Tree," you have a clear, dramatic view of the Prokletije (The Accursed Mountains). These are the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps and represent some of the most rugged and least explored terrain in Europe. The contrast between the sun-drenched valley and the snow-capped peaks in the distance is breathtaking. Cijevna Canyon Night Bridge This bridge near Dinoša provides an incredible perspective of the Cijevna river. At this point, the canyon starts to tighten into a deep, narrow slot. Away from the city lights, the white limestone of the canyon glows under the moon, and the sound of the rushing water is amplified by the silence of the surrounding hills.

This ride takes you through one of the most unique geological landscapes in the Podgorica basin. Often called the "Montenegrin Colorado," the Cijevna (Cem) River has carved a narrow, dramatic canyon into the limestone floor of the Ćemovsko field. A gentle but visually stunning 16km loop that is perfect for families or a relaxing afternoon ride. This route moves away from the urban sprawl of Podgorica towards the karst wonder of the Cijevna River. The terrain is largely flat, but the views are deep, the road skirts the edge of a canyon that can drop suddenly and steeply into crystal-clear turquoise pools. The Canyon Bridge Viewpoint (Start of the Karst) This bridge offers the first "vertigo" moment of the trip. Standing here, you can see how the river, which looks like a shallow stream elsewhere, has sliced a clean, deep vertical slit into the white rock. This area is very close to the famous "Niagara Waterfall" of Podgorica. Just like its namesake, the water here creates a massive roar during the spring snowmelt, though it often dries up to a trickle in the peak of summer, revealing a moon-like landscape of hollowed-out stone. The Hidden "Island" & River Oasis A rare geological feature where the river splits to form a small, rocky island. This cluster of waypoints (including the Incredible Viewpoint and Small Waterfall) is the heart of the "Wild Cijevna." Unlike the more commercialized areas downstream, this spot feels like a secret garden. The Sand Beach & Rest Area Finding a sand beach in a limestone canyon is a rare treat. This is the ultimate spot for a mid-ride break. In the hot Montenegrin sun, these shaded pockets under the canyon rim are essential. The water here is cold year-round, as it is fed by mountain springs from the Prokletije range. Where the Road "Disappears" At this point, the modern road seems to yield to the raw power of the canyon. It’s a transition point where you feel the true scale of the landscape, the white karst rock stretches out towards the horizon, punctuated only by wild pomegranate and fig trees.