Via Francigena | Stage XXIX📍 Fornovo di Taro → Passo della Cisa

Via Francigena | Stage XXIX
📍 Fornovo di Taro → Passo della Cisa

I knew the Apennines existed.
I just apparently missed that geography class.

My strategy throughout this journey has been simple: not overthinking the stages too much. I usually only look seriously at the following day the night before. Enough to understand logistics, elevation and distance — but without obsessing over it.

Well… that strategy backfired today.

Only yesterday evening did I realise this was not “a climb”.
This was a proper mountain stage.

Around 1,300m+ of elevation gain throughout the day, spread over more than 40km of constant climbing. Not Alpine altitude, of course — but very much an Alpine-type effort. Probably somewhere in the Top 3 hardest stages of the trip so far.

And the thing is: the Passo della Cisa is not just another climb.

For centuries, this was one of the main gateways to Rome from Northern Europe. Pilgrims, merchants, bishops and travellers crossed here on their way south. The point where the Po Valley ends and the Apennines truly begin. The symbolic doorway into Tuscany… and eventually Rome.

Maybe that’s why arriving here felt special.

Not because 1,041m is some absurd altitude.
But because you feel you’ve crossed something.

The landscape changes.
The air changes.
The road changes.
Even your mindset changes.

Today was basically 5+ hours of staring at asphalt, trees and brutal gradients. A stage longer than some Nadal vs Djokovic matches.

And because Berceto was asking around €150 for a room — which honestly sounds more like a luxury Tuscany weekend than a pilgrim stop — I had two options:

- stop earlier in Cassio;
- or continue climbing another 6km to Passo della Cisa.

So… here we are.

One important note for cyclists: between Terenzo and Cassio there are very few cafés or bars. Water fountains exist in several villages, but food stops become limited quickly.

Tonight I’m staying at Ostello Passo della Cisa, directly on the pass itself.

€40/night including:

- bed linen
- towels
- Wi-Fi
- 2 panini + 2 drinks for dinner

📍 SS62 della Cisa – Località Tugo, Berceto
There’s basically nothing else around, so you can’t miss it.

And honestly?
After today… I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.

@svkarmali