Let's dance the Balkans stage 9 from Ulog to Blagaj. In the cool of the morning we ride along the well-maintained dirt road that climbs to an altitude of 1250m. The entire first uphill stretch is in the shade, making it easier for us to pedal after the heat of the previous day. Outside the woods a splendid green plateau awaits us, with the road that stretches away as far as the eye can see, winding. Indescribable charm! There are some archaeological sites that can be reached with a few detours to the right and left, but the stage is quite long and we don't want to waste time. However, along the route, after having chased, grazed and desired them in the stages of the previous days, we manage to glimpse for the first time the Stecci, tombstones dating back to the Middle Ages, variously decorated, located in mystical places, just like the one we are crossing. The most important sites have now become UNESCO heritage sites. We are satisfied with those we encounter here: certainly not among the most significant, but the place where they are located is phenomenal, and with the stecci it acquires an extra flavor, almost like a pagan or Celtic rite (but probably has nothing to do with it). After crossing the plateau (almost a small Lessinia: if anyone were to ever read these lines search for: Lessinia – Italy), the road wedges itself into a splendid small gorge, running down one of its sides. The road is a significant communication route for the area (it should correspond to a state road or a provincial road) and was built following the canons for a communication road, there are a succession of stone embankments, excavated sections, there are all the stone bollards probably still dating back to the socialist era. Scenic!
Always downhill we reach the asphalt that takes us first to Nevesinje, where we decide to stop for refreshments. It is incredible to discover how even these villages so far from the most important centers were touched by the war; here too the bombings destroyed many buildings, then partly rebuilt until today. There are countless gravestones that you come across along the road, in these days of travel. Another short comfortable climb on asphalt in the pine forest, then we descend for 24 km and almost 1000m. Having reached a few kilometers from Blagaj, it is better to leave the asphalt and proceed downhill on the dirt road that was probably the old route of the state road: there are a succession of hairpin bends and bollards, along this still particularly fascinating stretch, until the center of Blagaj, where we get back on the asphalt.
Translated by Google •
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