Alpamayo Circuit Day 5

One of the most rewarding sections of the Alpamayo Circuit. Start by walking up from Tayapampa where you will quickly get your first view of Alpamayo's triangular peak on the trek.

Soon a small path will strike up to the right heading NW towards the pass of Mesapata. This is probably the most gentle of all the passes but, in my opinion, has some of the best views. The Pucajirca massif stands glittering behind you, rivalling some of the best peaks in even Patagonia and similar regions.

Drop gradually into the remote Mayobamba valley, where you might spot the occasional Quechua rider checking on the livestock. The climb is very gradual, following a faint path to the foot of the Gara Gara pass.

This is a serious lung-buster. At 4,830m, it is a huge pass, as well as being steep. There are a series of ruins at around 4,700m, as well as impressive views of the red mountains above. At Gara Gara there are amazing views of the Santa Cruz massif on a clear day.

Drop down past the small laguna towards the often soggy valley bottom of Jancarurish. Here there is another optional detour up to the northern Alpamayo basecamp. You can also choose to camp at acaracara camp near the river. Sadly, we got caught in a huge downpour so instead opted to continue down the valley following a stunning balcony path that runs along the side of the mountains with increasingly beautiful views of the Milluacocha massif.

If you continue further you will come to Ruinacampa camp, which makes for an atmospheric stay. We stopped early and wild camped in a small dell. There are, again, lots of livestock here.