The Pemigewasset Loop was my first real backpacking trip in the White Mountains, back when I was in high school and it’s still one of my favorite routes in the region. The Pemi Loop packs in much of what makes the Whites special: big climbs, sweeping views, ridgeline-traverses, deep forests, and remote-feeling peaks. It’s a demanding circuit, but it’s incredibly rewarding.
Most people start at Lincoln Woods, just off the Kancamagus Highway, but since it’s a true loop, you can technically begin or end at several trailheads. Popular access points include Liberty Springs, Gale River, and Zealand. That flexibility also makes it easier to customize your itinerary for time and fitness levels.
In this Collection,you’ll complete the full loop in three days and two nights, where you’ll cover nearly 30 miles and gain over 9,000 feet of elevation over some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in the Whites. You can complete the loop in either direction, but I prefer clockwise. That way you’ll hit iconic summits along Franconia Ridge like Liberty, Lincoln and Lafayette early, and save some of the most remote summits in the Whites, like Bondcliff (my personal favorite), for later.
Accommodations on the Pemi Loop are fairly flexible. You can camp at designated backcountry sites, which is the approach I’ve taken for this Collection. The sites—Liberty Springs, Garfield Ridge, and Guyot—include water sources, tent platforms, pit toilets, and sometimes a small shelter. They are first-come, first-served, and can fill up quickly in summer and fall, so it’s wise to arrive early. You can also mix in stays at AMC huts, or stick to them entirely if you’ve managed to snag a reservation. Galehead Hut is the most conveniently located on the loop itself, while Greenleaf (below Lafayette) and Zealand Hut (just off the Twinway) are slightly off-route but still workable. These are full-service huts with meals and bunks, but they’re hard to book during peak foliage season in the fall. If the tent sites are full or you’re pushing past them, dispersed backcountry camping is allowed in the Pemigewasset Wilderness, but you’ll need to camp at least 200 feet from trails and water sources, and at least ¼ mile from huts or established sites. Water access can be a bit tricky in drier months, so carrying extra or planning your refill points is key.
The terrain along the entire Pemi Loop is classic White Mountains: steep, rocky, and relentless. Long stretches without water and technical footing (especially in wet or muddy conditions) make this a challenging hike. But the rewards are huge—especially if you time your trip for early October, when fall foliage turns the hills into a sea of red and gold. This loop is also fantastic throughout the summer and early fall. Permits aren’t required for hiking or camping in the area, but you should follow all White Mountain National Forest regulations, and practice Leave No Trace Principles. The Lincoln Woods Trailhead parking area, where I’ve chosen to start and end the loop, is free, but busy, especially during autumn weekends.
Even though it’s been well over ten years since I first hiked the Pemi Loop, it remains one of the most complete-feeling and satisfying backpacking trips I’ve done in the region; it's one I keep coming back to because it really gives you just about everything the Whites have to offer.
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