Hike from Nice to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée – Europe Trail (GR 5)

The GR 5, commonly known as the ‘Europe Trail’, covers 2,600 kilometres (1,600 mi) from Nice in the south of France to Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Through majestic mountain ranges, such as the Alps, the Vosges and the Ardennes, the trail, which was first marked out in the middle of the last century, offers an eclectic panorama of the entire western continent.

This Collection details the 120 kilometres (75 mi) of this beautiful itinerary on a south to north journey from Nice to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée. From the picturesque beaches of the Mediterranean to the rugged peaks of the French Alps, passing through the heart of the remarkable hinterland of Nice, you discover a region that combines culture, nature and tradition.

Leaving Nice, you start the section of the GR 5 known as the ‘GTA – Grande traversée des Alpes’. The rough topography in the valleys of the Bévéra, the Var or the Tinée are a good introduction to the more strenuous hikes found on the great massifs that follow on the GR 5.

If the hinterland of Nice embraces the Mediterranean, the Mercantour National Park welcomes you with steep and often rocky slopes. All along the way, villages and hamlets with bucolic charm dot the valleys. Saint-Dalmas, Saint-Sauveur or Roya make for excellent adventures.

The route starts from Nice’s station, which is easily accessible from Marseille and Paris. TER and TGV trains are regular. In Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée, you can continue on the GR 5, or return by bus line 91 of the Lignes d'Azur regional network. In the stage descriptions, I detail the possibility of using public transport if necessary.

On this section of the GR 5, you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. There are many gîtes and inns in the towns and villages. In the high mountains, alpine huts are common. Depending on the season, the trails can fall victim to its popularity, so advance booking is recommended. It’s worth bearing in mind that some shops are only open from mid June to mid September. Whatever the season, research the route and plan well in advance.

If you like sleeping under the stars, take your tent or even a tarp. Wild camping is tolerated from sunset to sunrise, as long as your pitch away from building and respect the natural environment by leaving no trace. A wild camp or three in the rarified mountain air should offer you, on clear nights, an unrivalled celestial display.

I recommend this part of the GR 5 for the summer and autumn, as it includes a number of passages in the high mountains, above 2,000 metres (6,550 ft) in altitude. Therefore, make sure you’re aware of the conditions. It’s common for the passes and summits to be snowed in at the beginning of summer. Also, keep in mind that summers can be very hot: don't hesitate to take several litres of water with you.

Finally, for French-speaking literature lovers, I invite you to discover the excellent ‘Les brumes du Mercantour’, by Jean Siccardi, published in 2009. The novel tells the story of two young shepherds of the famous massif, ready to do anything to leave their pastoral life.

Have a good trip!