Kaddy Ledies

Leaving Capanna Adula, we opted for the direct way down: a 75-minute hike-a-bike on a narrow, steep trail plunging straight into the Valle di Blenio towards Dangio. If that doesn’t sound like your idea of fun, you can backtrack to Olivone along the same road as the previous day, then follow the main road down the Blenio Valley to rejoin the route. It’s just as beautiful... and no slower. We reached Biasca on quiet backroads, passing through a string of charming little villages far from the traffic. Lunch was well-earned: delicious gnocchi followed by an espresso to celebrate our return to the lowlands. From there, the route followed the Valle Leventina for about twenty kilometres. We explored a few side trails to scout potential off-road alternatives, not all worth recommending. The GPX track we’re sharing strikes, in our view, the right balance between flowy gravel sections and an efficient pace through the valley. Why the need to keep moving? Because a serious climb awaited: the ascent to Capanna Gesero with its 18 kilometres and over 1,600 metres of elevation gain. The gradient was relentless, winding up a quiet forest road, and of course, a final surprise was waiting near the top: a 1.5-kilometre hike-a-bike to reach the hut itself and, of course, stunning views as a reward. After a well-deserved (non-alcoholic) beer, we had to descend before nightfall and return home. It was a pity: we would have loved to spend a third night in a mountain hut to justify that tough climb. A good meal, a peaceful sleep, and a joyful descent to Bellinzona for a cappuccino before catching the train would have been the perfect way to keep enjoying Ticino a little longer - something we highly recommend.

Day two began in the warm light of the rising sun, heading towards the Passo dell’Uomo (2,210 Meters). The climb was almost entirely rideable for us, with just a short hike-a-bike section – but in such stunning surroundings, we hardly noticed the steep gradient. The descent towards the Lukmanier Pass follows an old military road: bumpy, sometimes steep, but fully rideable with a bit of technique and incredibly scenic. In the distance, the waters of Lago di Sontga Maria shimmered in the morning light. After a coffee and cake break at the Hospice Santa Maria on the pass, we continued toward Olivone. We chose to follow the marked MTB route and it was not our best idea. The terrain was too rough to be enjoyable on gravel bikes, and that’s coming from two riders who love a bit of underbiking! In our GPX track, we’ve only kept the sections we consider rideable, but it’s also perfectly fine to descend entirely on the paved road. In Olivone, we enjoyed the delicious sandwiches prepared by the hut keeper at Capanna Cadagno and stocked up for the long climb ahead - the last resupply opportunity of the day. Unfortunately, the beautiful gravel road leaving Olivone was blocked by a sizeable landslide, forcing us to take the main road and the Toïra tunnel to reach the base of the climb to the Luzzone dam. At the top, we faced a guessing game to find the right tunnels - amongst seven (!) carved through the mountain in every direction - leading into the Val Carrasin. The final stretch, eight kilometres of gravel through this timeless valley, was magnificent but demanding as hunger began to set in. Luckily, Capanna Adula awaited with beer and cake on the terrace, overlooking the Blenio Valley and the surrounding peaks. Dinner was hearty pizzoccheri, shared with hikers surprised to meet cyclists this high up - a perfect expression of what alpine gravel is all about.

With my friend Kaddy, we had arrived by train in Airolo the evening before. After a good night at the Hotel Forni, the day began with one of the most beautiful Alpine climbs: the Gotthard Pass via the legendary Via Tremola. I’ve ridden and photographed it countless times, but this was my first time on a gravel bike — perfect for smoothing out the old cobblestones that cover the final six kilometres and for enjoying the endless switchbacks that make this road so iconic. At the top, after soaking in the lively chaos typical of big Alpine passes, we turned right onto a small road instead of dropping down toward Andermatt as usual. Our goal: the Passo Scimfuss, at 2,241 Meters, surrounded by a splendid high-mountain landscape. Apart from a few cyclists and hikers enjoying the same golden autumn day, we soon found ourselves completely alone. The descent into the Val Canaria was steep and occasionally technical, but we managed to ride it all. When we reached the river, we chose to climb left on a steep hike-a-bike section to reach the road leading up to Lago Ritóm. If you prefer to stay on your bike, you can follow the SwissMobile MTB Route 65 — it descends to Valle and climbs back up again, adding about 200 metres of ascent. Reaching the lake, its deep-blue waters shimmering in the afternoon light, a few final kilometres brought us to our destination for the night: Capanna Cadagno, a beautifully modern mountain hut in the Val Piora. Time to embrace hut life — a slice of cake and a beer on the terrace, soaking up the last rays of sun at the foot of majestic peaks, before settling into the dorm and enjoying a hearty polenta dinner prepared by the hut keeper and his team.