Lucy

19 miles and 3,000 ft of elevation. And a couple of “this must be the way” moments that absolutely were not (and Pod hating me)! I thought we could loop back up… twice! Both times turned into dead ends, which meant climbing back down and then back up again for absolutely no reason. Extra miles, extra elevation, and a lesson in not trusting my navigation skills quite so much (especially given the native bears, wolves and landmines). We passed through the tiny village of Rika, and it was completely picturesque, with stone houses, mountain views, and rural charm you only find in places untouched by mass tourism. A little girl ran over to proudly introduce us to her puppy, which obviously we loved! One of the biggest highlights was stumbling across Save the Dogs Bosnia and Herzegovina. I was genuinely blown away by the setup, there are huge free-roaming spaces, kennels the dogs can access freely, running streams, pools, woodland areas, and agility equipment. It felt much more like a dog sanctuary than a traditional shelter. The organisation works to rescue, rehabilitate and rehome stray dogs across Bosnia and Herzegovina, while also promoting humane population control and better welfare standards. Seeing facilities like that out here was incredibly inspiring. I’d love to go and visit properly, and learn more about the work they do. Wrong turns, sore legs, and unexpected discoveries. These are the days we remember!

Today, we followed the emerald curves of the Korana river, the path quiet and peaceful in that out-of- season way. Bare trees, crisp air, and the steady rush of water beside us the whole way - exactly my kind of therapy! First stop was Matešićeva-Popovačka Cave, tucked into the limestone cliffs alongside the river. It’s a small karst cave formed by the same water that shapes this entire region. We couldn’t venture far inside today as heavy water coverage had claimed most of the entrance chamber, but it was still cool to see! Slunj sits in classic karst terrain, full of caves, sinkholes and underground rivers, and you can really feel that wild geology everywhere you walk. The bright blue-green of the rivers stems from the surrounding limestone bedrock dissolving into the water as calcium carbonate. These dissolved minerals reflect blue and green light from the sunlight, giving the water its vibrant turquoise appearance.  From there we continued towards Rastoke village, and honestly, it looks like it’s been lifted straight from a postcard. Wooden watermills balanced over turquoise cascades, little bridges criss-crossing the flow, and the Slunjčica River spilling dramatically into the Korana River. Often called “Little Plitvice” because of its similar waterfalls and travertine barriers, Rastoke has been a milling settlement for centuries. The traditional houses date back to the 17th century, and some of the mills are still operational. It’s small, peaceful, and completely enchanting - especially out of season when you can actually hear the water instead of the crowds.

Only half a route as out-of- season and half the trail is closed still. But still well worth it!

We've had a lovely day exploring Machico! This place has such a soft, relaxed charm, with colourful houses, cute painted doors, a palm-lined promenade, and that gentle buzz of local life which feels authentic and unhurried. We wandered through the old streets, stopped for coffee and lunch by the waterfront, and of course, made a little feline friend (the real highlight of the day!). We visited the beautiful church, Igreja Matriz de Machico. Originally built in the 15th century, it’s one of the oldest churches in Madeira and has been rebuilt and restored over the years. The white façade is simple but elegant, but inside you’ll find gorgeous carved wood details and historic artwork that reflect Madeira’s early religious heritage. Machico is incredibly significant historically. It’s widely recognised as the landing place of Madeira’s discoverers in 1419. Portuguese navigators João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira are said to have first landed here when they discovered the island. This pretty seaside town isn’t just cute, it’s where Madeira’s story began! We walked here via Calhau da Furna do Bode - said to resemble Mars!

Another circular from Caniçal today - and honestly one of my favourite hikes yet! This time I took on the stunning coastal ridge between Pico das Rocadas and Pico do Castanho, looping around the epic cliff-edge sections of Boca do Risco Trail. The scenery here is next level, with rugged coastlines, dramatic drop-offs and endless Atlantic views that make every step worth it. The route isn’t an easy one. This area is known for steep, irregular terrain and some proper vertigo-inducing sections, especially along the Vereda da Boca do Risco before you reach the main ocean viewpoint. It’s part of a longer challenge linking up with the Levada do Caniçal, an old irrigation channel that makes for a much gentler (and very welcome!) stretch after the cliff path - the perfect way to finish after those scrambly descents. And once again, it smelt incredible! The local flowers, wild herbs and sun-warmed plants are honestly heaven scent. Madeira always smells as good as it looks. There were also so many similarities to the South West Coast Path - the exposed coastal edges, the constant ups and downs, that raw Atlantic energy. It felt like a little slice of home, just with more dramatic volcanic backdrops and better weather! 💡 Trail highlights: • The Boca do Risco viewpoint is one of the most dramatic natural lookouts on Madeira’s east coast - mountains dropping straight into the sea. • A mix of exposed, exhilarating coastal trail and quieter sections through farming land, endemic flora and peaceful levada path. • Generally rated challenging, with varied elevation and narrow paths - definitely one for experienced hikers.

Circular hike from Caniçal today! I set off through the quiet streets of Caniçal and picked up the levadas as they wrapped their way around Castanho mountain, the rugged slopes towering above me the whole time. The paths were so good - carved into the hillsides with endless coastal views that just kept opening up. I headed up to Ilhéu and Facho peaks and the views if the valleys and towns below was incredible. Standing up there watching planes glide in to land and take off over the Atlantic felt surreal. Total stillness in the mountains, then a jet roaring past - such a contrast! The smells up there are some of my favourite memories! Warm earth, wild herbs underfoot, salty sea air drifting up from below - the whole experience is perfection!

PR8 route - ticket reservation needed. Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço. PR8 is the easternmost trail in Madeira, starting near Baía d’Abra and running around 7–8km (out and back) along the São Lourenço peninsula (we hiked from Canical, so our route was 10.8 miles). It’s very different to the lush levadas and forest walks - this one is a raw, rugged, volcanic landscape with dramatic cliffs dropping into the Atlantic on both sides. Completely exposed, and constant ups and downs! It was the BUSIEST trail I’ve ever seen! I knew it was popular, but this was next level. Coaches and cars arriving constantly, vehicles parked along the whole roadside, and a steady stream of people the entire way. Definitely not a “quiet nature immersion” kind of hike!

PR1.1 & PR1.2 - ticket reservations needed. We set off in the dark to hike up Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island standing at 1862m, and were treated to the most incredible night sky. Minimal light pollution and a blanket of stars overhead. As the sun began to rise, the sky exploded into the softest pinks and peaches, slowly lighting up the jagged peaks around us and revealing cloud inversions. Absolutely stunning! It was absolutely freezing at the summit - layers were definitely needed - but it was more than worth it for the views. After soaking it all in (and regaining feeling in our fingers!), we hiked down towards Ilha, with stunning ridgelines, forest canopies, and endless ocean views guiding us the whole way. Madeira really is my perfection. Dramatic mountains, ever-changing skies, and wild beauty at every turn. My happy place, always!

We were up early for sunrise and it didn’t disappoint! The sky was a mix of orange, pink and soft purple, with the light gradually lifting over the mountains and brightening everything around us. We went back to Levada Ribeira de Janela to continue the route we started a few days ago. We enjoyed it so much the first time that we wanted to see more - and heading out early meant we had the trail completely to ourselves. The scenery along this section was incredible: deep ravines, steep rock faces, beautiful waterfalls, and several long tunnels cut through the mountain (torch essential!). Walking through the tunnels and coming out to another huge view never gets old.

We hiked from Santa down into the wild beauty of the Borda da Ladeira valley and back up the other side to the Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz (cable car). The descent into the valley was sketchy at times - loose shingle underfoot keeping us fully focused - but the scenery was worth every careful step. Then came the climb on the other side - steep, leg-burning, but with those sweeping Atlantic views that make you forget the effort. The plan was to get the cable car down to Calhau das Achadas da Cruz, explore the tiny coastal village, then hike back up and retrace our steps to Santa. Sadly, as soon as we reached the top, the wind rolled in and the cable cars shut! With the conditions turning quickly, we made the call not to head back down into the valley. Instead, we continued on to Achadas da Cruz before descending to Santa via the road. Not as wild as the trail, but still beautiful - and definitely a lot quicker underfoot! Another day of big climbs, changing plans, and dramatic island views.