Let's dance the Balkans: a 12-stage cycle touring trip. Stage 5 from Susica Canyon to Mratinje. Perhaps calling it the most fascinating stage is too much, but........ The weather has improved and in the morning air refreshed by the rain of the previous day (we are also at 1500m above sea level) we set off into the sun. A few sporadic villages and a few small churches in the prairies illuminated by a vivid light. Then we begin to descend from the plateau towards the Piva River. Thanks to the brightness of a crystal-clear day and despite having already seen photos of the places, the charm of the artificial lake formed by the dam on the Piva River remains in my deepest memories. The road winds down to the lake, offering magnificent views. The tunnels dug into the rock and not illuminated begin; in the end we counted 88 of them (who knows if we counted correctly!). We stop often to take lots of photos, the place is truly worth it. The further you go along the state road, the narrower the river gorge becomes. The lake is more than 30 km long, of which we travel at least 20 km coming from a side road. After passing the dam (workers and service personnel at the dam not very politely warn us that you cannot stop or take photos in those places) the gorge becomes even wilder and the road crosses the river with a long bridge. We push on to Scepan Polije, on the border with Bosnia, even just to photograph the old iron and wooden bridge that only allows cars to pass in one direction at a time. Reminiscences of the wounds of war, which remain even after 30 years. A stop at the bar and off we go again. We retrace a stretch of the outward route, up to the dam, discovering even more views and details. An unmarked fork in the road in a dark tunnel indicates that we are at the turnoff to our destination: Mratinje. A few more tunnels and a few tiring climbs and we reach this pleasant location (sign) completely forgotten, on the opposite shore of the lake.
Having failed to communicate with the owner of the bed and breakfast, we arrive guided by GPS to the house that we find completely empty. It is an independent house with an orchard and vegetable garden. The gate has no lock, we easily manage to enter resting on the chairs and sofas in the porch. Fortunately the wi-fi is free and after having informed the owner of our arrival, we meet after a few minutes.