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For lovers of walking, historical monument, on the route

In Arona, the birthplace of San Carlo Borromeo, stands the imposing statue dedicated to the saint, built after his canonization to celebrate the greatness of the Milanese archbishop. For almost two centuries, this statue held the record for being the tallest in the world. The city preserves many places linked to the life of Borromeo: the Rocca, his birthplace, today transformed into an enchanting panoramic park with the remains of the ancient fortress; the collegiate church of Santa Maria Nascente, where he was baptized; and the church of the Santi Martiri, where he celebrated his last mass before returning to Milan, where he died in 1584.

Between the town of Vacciago and its cemetery, on a panoramic point overlooking Lake Orta, stands the church of Sant'Antonio Abate. Mentioned for the first time in a document from 1217, it contains a splendid fresco depicting the glory of Sant’Antonio Abate, painted in 1691 by the painter Giorgio Bonola.

The hamlet of Lortallo was a very pleasant surprise for me. Leaving Ameno, I was attracted by the sight of the mighty tower, which I later discovered was built in the 13th century. It is in excellent condition. Next to the tower, there is the Church of San Grato, which dates back to the 18th century (the bell tower is dated 1758). To the side of the tower and the church (which unfortunately I found closed and which is rarely open), closing the pretty little square, there is one of the entrances to Palazzo Decio, which I could only see from the outside because it is privately owned. However, the palace is used as a location for weddings and other celebrations, so online it is possible to see the interior, which develops around a large garden with a splendid view of Lake Orta. But the surprises offered by Lortallo do not stop there. In fact, I read that archaeological research conducted in Lortallo between 1915 and 1938, brought to light one of the most important necropolises of the early First Iron Age. The necropolis complex features tombs dating from the 9th to the 5th century BC and the findings can be placed within the Golasecca Culture, a common expression of various Celtic tribal groups that lived in the early Iron Age in western Lombardy, the Novara area and the Canton of Ticino. In short, it seems that Lortallo has been inhabited since the dawn of time.

The Church of San Donato is a true jewel of the sacred architecture characteristic of Vergante. The original place of worship, developed on a single nave plan, was built in the 11th century, but the oldest evidence of its existence dates back to 1169. During the fourteenth century the church was partially rebuilt in Romanesque-Gothic style and enlarged. In 1780 a large churchyard was built in front of the main façade, surrounded by fourteen chapels of the Via Crucis. In the nineteenth century the ancient medieval bell tower adjacent to the building was struck by lightning, which caused it to collapse; in its place, a new stone bell tower was erected. In 1902 the church was declared a national monument, confirming its importance as a very valuable example of the sacred architecture of the entire Vergante area.

Along the streets and alleys of Invorio Superiore you can admire a long series of vintage photos that illustrate moments of the past life of the town. The characteristic of the photos is given by the fact that they represent the life of the town as it once was, through shots that have immortalized the villagers busy with their daily chores, or in special moments, such as the wedding day. A dive into the past, very engaging.

The Church of San Rocco was built in the 17th century. Today, mass is celebrated once a year, on the day of San Rocco, August 16. In the past, however, several masses were celebrated during the day and the first, the morning one, ended with the blessing of the animals. Therefore, as the sign posted in front of the church recalls, it was customary for dogs, goats, sheep, pigs and donkeys to be found in front of the church in the morning, waiting to receive the priestly blessing.

B&B perfect for cyclists, on the Swiss Sea BI15 cycle path