Let's dance the Balkans stage 11 from Gabela to Zavala. Silvia has fully recovered. Breakfast outdoors and we set off along the railway. We cross 2 iron bridges with fascinating architecture, one of which is still used for vehicular traffic, then in the Dracevo area we decisively abandon the roads, and our route takes on the original gravel path. In this section we cross and can still admire important construction works such as embankments on side valleys, iron bridges, tunnels, the last 2 (as far as I know) curved tunnels still standing, important carvings in the rock walls. This section of the route is easy to pedal but at the same time full of attraction. To cross the tunnels it is a good idea to bring a few powerful torches with you, they are completely dark and there are colonies of bats living there, which, disturbed by your passage, will emit high-pitched screeches, launching into flight. If you focus on them with torches, you will see them darting in the semi-darkness. The best ones will be able to photograph them! The former railway climbs steadily with a fascinating winding path that passes through small semi-abandoned villages, where you can recognize the ruins of the old railway stations. Fortunately, in some of these villages there are some refreshing fountains. We skirt the humid area of Lake Svitavsko. Beyond Hutovo, the path skirts for kilometers the large Polje (karst plain) that reaches all the way to Trebinje. The view is unusual, the plain is nestled between the mountains, you would expect to find yourself in front of a body of water; instead, as far as the eye can see there are crops. Recently, to drain the stagnant water at the bottom of the plain, a system of collection channels was built, with a rather scenic effect; this has made it possible to better use the valley bottom for agricultural purposes. Certainly cultivated since ancient times, the use of the valley floor was subject to limitations and difficulties due to seasonal flooding as it collected all the water from the valley slopes without a real outlet, dispersing it then, as happens in the karst plains, only by percolation.
A few more kilometers and we reach the end of today's stage: in the former Zavala train station, a truly tasteful guesthouse has been created where Ana and Teo will give you a warm welcome. The location is fantastic, an amphitheater on the "sea" of polje crops. Dinner and breakfast (weather permitting) outdoors under a pergola for a perfectly romantic atmosphere. Large rooms (you can call them apartments), excellent cuisine and friendly company. What more could you want? Nearby there is also an Orthodox monastery and a cave that can be visited for a fee, but the tiredness of the journey is starting to make itself felt. We prefer a bit of relaxation in front of a cool drink. Mr. Teo, originally from these places, is passionate like me about the history of the old railway that partly operated until 1976. The B&B is full of relics and photos of times gone by. For him, who also lived a piece of history, these places and these photos represent indelible memories of his youth.
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