Stage 1. Plasencia/Béjar
58.7 kilometers. 640 positive meters.
In Roman times Plasencia did not exist, it was founded by Alfonso VIII in the 12th century to fortify the border of the Tagus against the Muslim push. Two thousand years ago, the hills that mark the Jerte canyon in the north of Cáceres were camps of the Roman legions to control the passage of the nearby Vía de la Plata through the forts of Carcaboso and Galisteo, the famous Medina Galisyah of Almanzor, which It still preserves one of the best walled enclosures of Almohad origin in Extremadura. The route of the Vía de la Plata Natural Trail officially begins at the Plasencia railway station, where the old railway to Astorga left, it is a good place to park and prepare the equipment. The visit to the historical complex of the city can be done by bicycle, the old town preserves the medieval atmosphere, the streets are narrow and by bike it is easy to get to know the notable monumental legacy of the Pearl of the North, as the people of Placentia call their city. The Plaza Mayor is a must-see, it has stately homes and there is the Town Hall in a 15th century palace, with the popular Abuelo Mayorga hugging the bell tower. Plasencia has two cathedrals, the Old Cathedral is a transition from Romanesque to Gothic, and the New Cathedral is an imposing building with Renaissance and Plateresque facades. The old medieval walls surround the old part of the city, which also had a Jewish quarter and preserves a 300-meter stretch and 55 arches of an ancient aqueduct built in the 16th century to supply drinking water to the population.
A good place to leave the medieval complex is through the Berrozana gate, one of the original gates of the walls, crossing the Jerte river on the stone bridge of San Lázaro, shortly after is the roundabout of the Tenerías bridge and on the right the underpass where the Vía de la Plata Natural Trail information panel is located and the beginning of the track. A small hill climbs to the entrance of the San Lázaro tunnel and the gravel journey through the Cáceres pastures of the Ambroz Valley begins. The tunnel is closed at night, it is the first one I have seen on a greenway or natural path with a passage time, it is closed between seven in the afternoon and nine in the morning. In its favor, it has automatic artificial lighting and has a short construction time, such as the following kilometers to La Jarilla. This section was inaugurated in March 2023 and is impeccable. At the exit of the tunnel the urban environment disappears and the path runs through the Jerte River canyon to the Iron Bridge, which has a small viewpoint on one side to contemplate the spectacular granite gorge of the Jerte River and the two bridges, one of which only The pilasters and the restored one for cyclists and walkers remain. The explanation is on a poster with the details and curiosities of the railway track.
The road is a constant climb to Puerto de Béjar, about 600 positive meters in 50 kilometers, there are several stretches of false flatness but you cannot stop pedaling. The cycling ride is delicious through hills populated with holm oaks and cork oaks at the foot of the Tras la Sierra Mountains. On the road there are remains of the old stops and next to the old buildings there are benches to take a break. The most important station is Villar de Plasencia, it has the water tank, the platforms, the cargo warehouse and a large space with benches. And it is a key point in the stage because next to it there is a service station on the N-630 with a bar and restaurant, the only supply point on the road to Hervás. The route continues through the pastures of Casas del Monte, which also has a “station neighborhood”, passes through the old station of Aldeanueva del Camino and reaches Hervás, in the beautiful basin that forms the headwaters of the Ambroz River, surrounded by lush trees. oak and chestnut forests at the foot of the Pinajarro massif, the westernmost summit of the Béjar mountain range. At the Hervás station there is a bar and there is the Railway Interpretation Center, highly recommended for delving into the history of the Mérida-Astorga railway. And of course you should not miss the opportunity to walk through the historic center, one of the best Jewish quarters in Extremadura.