In Gallo-Roman times, this was the forum and forecourt of the first Saint-Étienne Cathedral. It is still the heart of the city. Every Saturday morning, the market welcomes shoppers. This market offers only organic produce. This square intersects Boulevard de la République, a vast thoroughfare that was designed and invented in the 19th century by a certain Eugène Haussmann. He was not yet a baron; he was sub-prefect of Nérac when he brought a breath of fresh air to the departmental metropolis by opening boulevards: Boulevard Carnot and Boulevard de la République. Fortunately, the Place des laitiers was not affected by the transformations.
In the center of the square stands a statue depicting a pilgrim walking the Camino de Santiago. A reminder of this medieval context. Pilgrims stayed in two towns: Moissac and Agen. Needless to say, the rivalry between these two cities was fierce... They fought over what were then called "the marchers of piety." This square is magnificent. It is lined with houses surmounted by corners also called ambans. These covered galleries allowed merchants in the Middle Ages to display their wares without fear of damage from the sun or rain. Today, many cafes and ice cream parlors have set up their tables there. And since cars are not allowed to park, it's a perfect place to safely set up café terraces.
If you're curious, go admire the painted ceiling of the Dairymen's Brasserie. The decor is Rococo, it's true, the structure is reminiscent of a Parisian bistro (which is hardly surprising when you know the owner's background), but when you look up at the ceiling, you discover a painted canvas mounted on it. This painting is a copy of the one that adorned the ceiling of the couple's bedroom in the Hôtel de Gonzague in Mantua. It's original, surprising, and exotic.
Another interesting place: the Quesseveur bookstore. This shop is next to the brasserie. It's certainly one of the oldest businesses in the city, since the first printing press in Agen opened there in 1634. A bookstore was later added. By the way, do you know why this square is called Place des laitiers? The explanation is quite simple: it was on this square that every morning, local farmers arrived to sell milk from their farms to the bourgeoisie of Agen. On this square was the forecourt of Saint-Étienne Cathedral, the first cathedral in Agen. Falling into ruins, it was demolished. It was replaced in 1883 by a Baltard-style market hall. In 1970, the covered market was built in its place... A long concrete spire rises into the sky, below the covered market, above 5 floors of parking. It's really not pretty, but it has one advantage. An exterior elevator allows you to reach the upper floors of the parking lot. By taking it, you discover the beautiful city of Agen