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ownham Market's town centre is on a smaller scale than those of nearby Swaffham, Dereham and Fakenham, and here there is no great church lifting its head above the market place. To find the parish church of this interesting town, you need to head out to the east, where it is hidden from view by trees on top of a rise above the road to Swaffham. Here St Edmund sits, a pretty thing in gingerbread carstone, with an elegant lead-covered spire crowning its squat tower. You can see at first glance that this is by no means a grand, urban church. I was struck by how few gravestones survive in the churchyard. Carstone is notoriously difficult to date, but the low aisles and nave are essentially 15th Century I think, while the chancel is a 19th century rebuild. Set into the stone above the priest door is a crucifixion scene, probably from the top of a former churchyard cross. It all makes for an interesting building quite unlike that of most Norfolk towns. Although there are exceptions, the parish churches of Norfolk's market towns tend to be High Church in character, even Anglo-catholic, and St Edmund is higher than most. The interior is rather dark thanks to a multiplicity of stained glass, but it was not gloomy, and the smell of incense and the view of the lighter chancel with its big six candlesticks on the altar was evocative and atmospheric. Essentially, this is a late 19th century interior, but there are a couple of important medieval survivals. The most significant of these is the set of 15th century glass panels set in the west window below the ringing chamber. They include figures from the orders of angels as well as angel musicians, a fragment of figures rising out of the mouth of hell from a Harrowing of Hell image, as well as another fragment of the dead rising from their graves.

Another good Downham cafe

Great fuel stop. The Coffee and Walnut cake is AMAZING.

Great food, lovely staff and plenty of space in the garden and the owner promises a free banana for cyclists! (At least those doing the rebellion way)

Large beer garden at the front overlooking the green, including a covered area.

The pub next door, the unusually named 'Twenty Church Wardens' is a good free house for a refreshment stop.

The Green Parrot cafe in the square has good coffee and lovely cakes. Nice to sit outside on a sunny dau