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Viterbo lived its period of major splendor and power in the 13th century when it was chosen as the seat of the papacy instead of Rome, where powerful warring families made life too dangerous. Eight different popes lived in Viterbo making it is similar to Vatican City and Avignon in France. The longest papal conclave in history happened here from 1 December 1268 to 1 September 1271. Following Pope Clement IV's death, infighting between cardinals and political pressure led to a 34-month deadlock. The cardinals were locked up cum clave (hence the word conclave) inside the palace’s large Conclave Hall. In desperation the town’s population, who were feeding them and their entourages, eventually reduced the cardinals’ food and wine supplies, trying to speed up the election. Time wore on and they finally decided to remove the roof of the palace: in order to help the Holy Spirit come down and illuminate them, it was quipped. That worked.

Capranica is a village in Tuscia, built on a tuff cliff between the Cimini Mountains and the Mignone River valley. Its origins are Etruscan, but the center we see today retains its medieval charm, with narrow streets, arches, ancient gates, and evocative churches such as that of Santa Maria Maddalena. Hazelnut groves, olive groves, and woods extend all around, creating a distinctive landscape. It's a pleasant stop on the Via Francigena, where history and nature meet in an authentic and welcoming atmosphere.

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Nature reserve

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Nice ride

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...is on the Via Francigenia pilgrimage route (hiking route)...

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The Papal Palace in Viterbo served as the Vatican for the 24 years of the thirteenth century when the papacy moved there due to ongoing unrest in Rome.

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Wonderful path through nature, lined with hazelnut plantations.

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Hazelnut bushes as far as the eye can see.

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I got to the place by going uphill through the woods, continuous ups and downs. Near Viterbo

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Abbey of San Martino al Cimino

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A lake of volcanic origin in the province of Viterbo, Lake Vico perhaps owes its name to the locality Vicus Matrini, an important junction on the Via Cassia that no longer exists. It is surrounded by a wetland that is also a protected natural area.

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Coffee and water break stop. There are more fountains fortunately.

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The Anfiteatro Romano in Sutri is an impressive archaeological monument carved entirely out of tuff. Built between the late 2nd century B.C. and the early 1st century AD, this amphitheater represents the heart of the Sutri identity. It has an elliptical shape and could accommodate about 7000 spectators. The amphitheater is divided into three rows of seats, separated for different social classes. There are two entrances: one overlooking Via Cassia, and the other, higher up, with a covered walkway. The amphitheater was partially excavated between 1835 and 1838. There are only two other amphitheaters in the world that are completely carved into the rock, in Cagliari and Leptis Magna (Libya).

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Capranica, an extraordinary town in the province of Viterbo crossed by the Via Francigena dominated by the lush "Marco Forest" (short for Marcone), has ancient origins and extraordinary testimonies of its past, such as the religious architecture of the churches of Madonna del Piano, San Pietro, San Francesco, Madonna del Cerreto, San Terenziano, Madonna delle Grazie; such as the civil architecture of the Forlani Palaces, Montenero Sansoni, the Porta di Sant'Antonio, the portal of the Hospital of San Sebastiano; such as the military architecture of Anguillara Castle. Palazzo Accoramboni, built between 1571 and 1579 according to a design by the architect Giacomo del Duca, Michelangelo's only student, houses the municipality of Capranica,

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The municipality of Vetralla (province of Viterbo, Lazio) is located along the Via Francigena at 300 meters above sea level. Known for its characteristic medieval village and the forests of the Cimini Mountains - the green lung of Tuscia - it is a land of important Etruscan, Roman and barbarian settlements and has a rich artistic and archaeological heritage.

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The Palace of the Popes, or Palazzo dei Papi, in Viterbo is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. Built in the 13th century, it served as a residence for the popes. The palace is an example of Gothic architecture and features beautiful vaulted halls, courtyards and an impressive tower that offers panoramic views of the city. The National Museum, with an extensive collection of medieval works of art, is housed in the beautiful spaces of the palace.

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water fountain

Old customs road that runs alongside the Classicana state road, the Tuscia I didn't know. Very easy white road.

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Palazzo dei Papi is a palace in Viterbo, northern Lazio, Italy. It is one of the city's most important monuments and is located next to the Duomo di Viterbo (Viterbo Cathedral). From 1257 to 1281 a total of eight popes resided in Viterbo almost without interruption. The commune's offer to build a palace as a curia seat for the popes contributed to this. This structure was built in sections from 1255 to 1266 and was given the name “Palace of the Popes” due to its use; today it is the Bishop's Palace. The first and longest conclave to date took place in Viterbo. In 1268, after the death of Pope Clement IV, the conclave began, which lasted a total of 1005 days (from November 30, 1268 to September 1, 1271). The number of cardinals was initially 20 and in the end only 16, as 3 cardinals died during this time and one left the conclave. On Bonaventure's advice, the cardinals were eventually confined to bread and water until a new pope was elected. On September 1, 1271, a non-cardinal was elected as the new pope. The chosen one, Tebaldo Visconti, an Italian from Piacenza, not even a priest, was at that time on a pilgrimage in the Holy Land (Acre). Visconti, then archdeacon of Liège, arrived in Viterbo on February 10, 1272, accepted the election, was ordained a priest and bishop on March 19, 1272 and was crowned as Pope Gregory X in Rome on March 27, 1272. In Viterbo. resident popes: Alexander IV, Pope from 1254 to 1261 (stable residence in Viterbo from 1257); Urban IV, Pope from 1261 to 1264 (divided his residence between Orvieto and Viterbo); Clement IV, Pope from 1265 to 1268 (almost always lived in Viterbo); Gregory X, Pope from 1271 to 1276 (Gregory Innocent V, Pope from January 21 to June 22, 1276 (stayed in Viterbo for two weeks, shortly after his election, and met Charles of Anjou there); Hadrian V, Pope from July 11, 1276 to August 18, 1276 (spent almost all of his short pontificate in the monastery next to the church of San Francesco alla Rocca); John XXI, Pope from September 15, 1276 to May 20, 1277 (almost always lived in Viterbo); Nicholas III, pope from 1277 to 1280 (divided his residence between Viterbo, Rome and Soriano nel Cimino); Martin IV, elected on February 22, 1281 (left Viterbo immediately after his election).

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For overnight stays, we ended the journey at Lake Vico and then moved to Caprarola to visit the splendid Palazzo Farnese, or Villa Farnese, one of the most fascinating examples of a Renaissance residence in all of Europe. A journey full of history that would have deserved many stops, but we still had to get to the planned destination... It has five floors, dozens of rooms, frescoed halls, public and private spaces and a park with dream gardens. Its origins, in fact, date back to 1530. The building consists of five floors, including the basement, and is surrounded by a large moat. It has a pentagonal shape and a circular internal courtyard. The palace is accessed via a double staircase, whose ramps first diverge and then converge towards the main door. The servants' areas were separated from the cardinal's area and were even obtained from the thickness of the walls. Vignola was also the author of the frescoes on the internal staircase (the Scala Regia). It is a magnificent spiral staircase resting on 30 Doric columns. Legend has it that the steps were so wide that the cardinal reached the main floor directly on horseback. Over the course of twenty years, numerous illustrious painters decorated the rooms with frescoes of mythological and geographical subjects and with episodes from the history of the Farnese family: the brothers Federico and Taddeo Zuccari, Jacopo Zanguidi (known as il Bertoja) a pupil of Parmigianino, Raffaellino da Reggio and John de Vecchi. The cardinal's bedroom, the Camera dell'Aurora, and the celebrity room, known as the Stanza dei Fasti Farnesiani, decorated with frescoes that summarize the life of the Farnese family, are located on the noble floor. Next, we find the Sala dei Fasti di Ercole masterfully decorated by the Zuccari Brothers with the depiction of the mythological creation of Lake Vico. One of the most representative rooms of the building is the Stanza delle Geografiche or the Mappamondo, which takes its name from the frescoes by Giovanni Antonio da Varese depicting the world then known from the descriptions of travellers. This room contains an even more fascinating work, a singular representation of the Zodiac in the vaulted ceiling. From the highest floors of the building you can enjoy a spectacular view: Monte Soratte, Terminillo, the Sabatini Mountains, the valleys and the woods.

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