In the coastal village of Miramar, in Gulpilhares, Vila Nova de Gaia, stands a small chapel built on top of a rock, facing away from the sea. Small but monumental, fragile but strong, unreal and yet true, that is the beautiful Capela do Senhor da Pedra.
Looking from afar, it seems as if the Atlantic will swallow it up on the first stormy night, but three centuries have passed since its construction, and it remains standing firm. Perhaps it is because of the rock on which it stands - a place of worship for over two thousand years.
As the inscription on the tile mosaic framed at the entrance to the chapel attests, the giant stone originally housed a pagan temple, possibly Celtic. When Christianity arrived in Portugal, efforts were made to Christianise the territory and free it from its pagan roots. The site where the Capela do Senhor da Pedra now stands was then chosen to "reclaim" the land from heretics, but despite the conversion to the Christian faith, secret ceremonies linked to pagan worship still take place on full moon nights. It is said that it is common to find melted candles left by neo-pagan worshippers on the rocks and sand next to the chapel, but I did not see any.