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It was a Norman motte and bailey castle which was founded by Ralph de Buron. In the 13th century King John built a stone castle, adding a keep, a chapel, a gatehouse and a barbican. In 1514 it was granted by Henry VIII to the Duke of Norfolk as a reward for services against the Scots. Later it came into the possession of the Stanhope family. The castle is ruined today, damaged by extensive quarrying. There are visible remains of the keep although this is now largely overgrown.

Though the building looks quite modern, reportedly Smalley Baptist Church was built in 1784. To acommodate increasing number, the church was lengthened in 1820 and a gallery was added.

Smalley's Parish Church of St John the Baptist was built in the late 18th century on the site of a much earlier church, the transepts being added later in 1844. A seventh century Saxon cross forms part of the porch. The bell tower was built in 1911, to the designs of Currey and Thompson, housing five bells donated by the Rev. Charles Kerry. The chime of five bells is said to be the heaviest in England, the largest bell weighing over 2 tons. The parish church hosts occasional street parties for the residents of Smalley.

Horsley has three main focal points: the village green at the West side of the village, the crossroads of The Dovecote, French Lane and Church Street, and the junction of Church Street, Lady Lea Road and Smalley Mill Road (known locally as "the triangle"). Each of these points boasts a fountain, donated to the village in 1864 by Reverend Sitwell. The fountains were named Sophia, Rosamund and Blanche after the Sitwell family's daughters. The Sitwells of Horsley, Derbyshire, were related to the Sitwell family of Leamington Hastings, Warwickshire, where they had inherited the lordship of the manor on marrying a Wheler family heiress.

Horsley Lodge is a Par 72 course spanning 164 acres. Its 6544 yards wind beautifully through the Derbyshire countryside. Originally meadowland, it has transformed into a parkland course over the last 30 years, with trees providing each hole with distinctive definition.

St Anthony's Well at Coxbench.

Designed in 1991 by Donald Steel, featuring excellent views of the local countryside The Moorland Course offers a heath-land style layout. A Par 70 course and measuring just over 6,000 yards off the white tees offers a very playable course where distance isn’t demanded from the golfer.

'Private land' signage all around but there are paths all over and nobody taking much notice of the warnings - least of all the BMX riders pelting down the hillside.