To get from Ayacucho to the next valley, the road leads steeply out of the city over two passes at 4200m and 4400m. Even the entrance to the city was like driving over a pass: from Huanta you work your way up 500m over dirt roads in heavy traffic, pursued by dogs, over 15-20% ramps into the city. After Cusco, Ayacucho is considered the most interesting city in Peru. City of 37 churches, numerous colonial buildings, beautiful plaza. And the beautiful city has a dark past: it was the headquarters of the Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path). The terrorist organization aimed at the political, economic and social overthrow of the country and in the 1980s brought terror and death to the population. Today the city is considered safe, only the Museo de la Memoria remains a reminder of that terrible time.