This is my big crossing of Austria from east to west: I spent 25 days on expedition in the Austrian Alps. I started at the Czech border and finished at the Swiss border. I explored a total of twelve alpine regions in 22 hikes and climbed 14 peaks - five of them were over 3,000 meters. In between, our DIY camper van served as a home and base.
Everywhere was beautiful in its own way but I especially liked the Schobergruppe and the Rätikon mountain ranges. The result is a Collection of some fantastic day Tours and four hut (overnighter) Tours.
See for yourself and get inspired!
Now it has started, our little project for this summer. We passed the Czech border this morning and are now starting our big crossing of Austria.What's the plan? In 25 days the van takes you across the Alps, from the Czech border to Liechtenstein (or Lake Constance, I don't know exactly yet).Station is made in at least ten different Alpine regions, it should be a real exploration tour. We hike this through a few day tours and six mini hut tours of two to five days. We want to climb as many peaks as possible, including some 3,000-meter peaks.So I'm really excited! A lot: Will the camper pass this hardcore test? On the diversity of the different regions and especially on the 3,000 m er.We did our warm-up today with two mini-peaks near Vienna. The small foothills of the Alps Leopoldsberg (425 meters) and Kahlenberg (484 meters) were more of a walk, but in the humid weather today we still sweated, especially after the wine spritzer in the middle of the vineyards. But there was already a great view of Vienna, if the weather had been better we could have seen our goal for tomorrow. To achieve that, you definitely need a few more meters in altitude 🤗.
Rax-Schneeberg is the name of today's Alpine region where we stopped. To be honest, I have to admit, I haven't heard anything about it before. With the Schneeberg massif, we have therefore chosen the most prominent mountain. With over 17 kilometers and 1,400 meters in altitude, the tour to the highest point in Lower Austria was not necessarily easy. Especially after we passed the tree line. My hiking companion said my eyes would light up like when I was giving presents 😆. What a great, rugged rock we had to climb through. One hand on the rock, one on Lotte's dishes, that's how it has to be.What I've never had before: With the first step on the way, I was fully in rhythm, the first 1,200 vertical meters a walk, felt really great. After we passed the summit cross on the monastery coat of arms and escaped the tourist crowds, however, there were still a few difficult kilometers on narrow, sometimes slippery forest paths and a few climbing spots.The path just doesn't want to end, I tell you. But he had to, because we really wanted to get the last ride of the chairlift, with which we saved ourselves the last 400 meters downhill. But thanks to half a sprint, we made it 😅. The Schneeberg is definitely worth a hike 👍.
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A hike to the summit is one of the classic and most popular routes in southern Lower Austria. The "gentle giant" is equally popular in both summer and winter. The panorama is breathtaking. The next stop is the Fischerhütte (around 20 to 30 minutes on foot)
Today we stopped in the Seckauer Tauern in Styria and we were quite impressed. Of course, when you go up the highest mountain (Geierhaupt) in the best hiking weather, it can only be awesome.Although the ascent of almost 1,200 meters was below what we did yesterday, it cost a lot of grain. What a few percent more incline can make. OK, maybe yesterday's legs were a bit heavy too 😇.The vulture's head measures 2,417 meters with an absolutely brilliant all-round view. The ascent from Ingeringsee is first through the forest, then over steep grass slopes and rock climbing. It's unbelievable how almost six kilometers can stretch if you need three hours for it. Lotte in particular deserves respect for this! Because the path was pretty hot in between, then a thunderstorm rumbled from a distance and all that in the middle of the block climbing.We then took a long Lotte break at the first shadowy spot. Unbelievable what that brings, then we went downhill wagging our tail. The first dirty pool was hers too. Anyway, only dirty dogs are happy dogs.By the way, yesterday we thought about whether we should go for the Geierhaupt or the one meter less tall Hochreichhart. Perhaps someone knows who and can report whether we made the right choice? I can't really make up my mind about the pictures, so many great motifs 😍.
The ascent to the highest peak of the Seckauer Tauern from Ingeringsee is challenging, but worth all the effort! An impressive summit that guarantees a fantastic view. The hike requires a good dose of stamina and surefootedness. Recommended only in good weather, but then very warm.
From the Hannoverhaus over the Ankogel to the Celler Hütte and the next day descent to the mountaineering village of Mallnitz, that was the plan for the last two days. But sometimes you just have to reschedule. We started early at the Hannoverhaus and dared to climb the 3,252 meter high Ankogel. But pretty soon not only a fresh wind was blowing around our noses, but thick clouds clouded our view. Not easy to find your way in the snow.My hiking companion got off with Lotte at the foot of the Kleiner Ankogel in exposed places, I dared a little more. At least I still reached the summit of the Kleiner Ankogel (3,090 meters). But more was not possible that day. The exposed, airy ridge was too foggy on all sides and there was also a lot of snow. It's a shame, but it wasn't supposed to be that day. So we went quickly (that is, running and sliding) back down the snow fields.The subsequent way to the Celler Hütte (a self-catering hut) was a real dream! Demanding, promising and not particularly crowded. But about an hour before our destination, a large, unfriendly and noisy group of these survival hikers overtook us. You already know: those who go hiking with a knife on their belt and have their backpacks full of beer. We suddenly lost our desire for cramped mattresses in the Celler hut. Since the weather was still holding, we quickly added the second stage to it and descended directly. Phew, what a march with more than 17 kilometers and almost 1,800 vertical meters in the descent!So we come to our first day of rest unplanned, which I used extensively to reschedule our next tour. It's so cool to lounge in bed in your own van and plan tours! I used the good old map and a couple of hiking guides and adapted and planned the trekking with komoot directly on the mobile phone. With a little practice, this is really perfect for on the go. Starting tomorrow, you can go on a six-day trek! The feet are already wriggling.
Finally we can walk through the mountains for several days at a time. Today our longest trek of this crossing of Austria started. In six days it goes through the Glockner and Schober groups.From Heiligenblut we climbed to the foot of the Großglockner today, but not without making a detour to the Gössnitz waterfall, from which massive amounts of water plunge 70 meters into the depth. The subsequent access to the ascent cost us a lot of time, countless trees were crisscrossed and wanted to be climbed over (note: road closures usually have a good reason).Up to the Glocknerhaus we chose a section of the 1st stage of the Alpe-Adria-Trail, of which I ran a section last year. And honestly now, I just don't warm to the path. The route was moderate today, as was the prospect. Coupled with my motivation today, which could be improved, it was a tough affair. But it got better in the back. It is definitely impressive when the Grossglockner comes into view for the first time with a height of 3,789 meters. Will I be up there someday? Again it is frightening what has become of the once mighty glacier. I saw a picture in the hut and took a comparison picture for you ...
It was short and painless today to the Salmhütte. We'd better do without the glacier trail after looking at the weather forecast. Somehow I'm not so lucky with the weather this year. Still, it was a great tour.First we climbed up to the Stockerscharte, from where we could take a last look at the Pasterze glacier. We then covered the last kilometers to the hut on a fine panorama path. We weren't bothered by the drizzle, but when the sun is shining it is sure to be a real pleasure to hike here.And then I saw an edelweiss for the first time in my life, so I can stop hiking 😂. Now I'm hoping for a little more stable weather so that tomorrow it can go over the 3,000 mark. Crossed fingers are welcome. 😊
Hike from the foot of the Großglockner over a 3,000-meter peak and then spend a night in a bivouac at over 2,900 meters to see the almost perfect sunset. Doesn't that sound too good to be true?That's exactly how my hike was today. In bright sunshine, we hiked leisurely over lush alpine meadows, bridges and fine slopes. All around us, families of marmots with the cutest offspring. Ah!But it shouldn't stay that lovely, because after I couldn't make two 3,000-meter summits this year due to the weather, it worked today! Up to the Böse Weibl at 3,119 meters it was steep, over rocks and snow fields and at the end exposed for a few meters. But it's so great to be up there! Especially when you can also see your sleeping place hanging in the rugged rock. A bivouac at over 2,900 meters in the middle of a gap serves as a place to sleep today. How nice is it here? I can't put into words ...
Even if the name suggests an adrenaline-pumping climb, the Böse Weibl belongs to the rather easy 3,000-meter peaks - which also explains its great popularity.
From the conical summit you have a fantastic view of the Großglockner and the Schober group. The ascent leads on beautiful mountain paths over beautiful alpine meadows, shortly before the summit it goes over scree and boulder.
The Gernot Röhr bivouac with space for six to eight people stands alone on the Kesselkees saddle. It belongs to the Lienz ÖAV section and is located on the Wiener Höhenweg between Glorerhütte and Elberfelder Hütte. No hotplate, no water and no possibility of heating.
The night in the bivouac was surprisingly relaxing, although I got a headache due to the altitude overnight. We made the one and a half hour descent to the Elberfelder Hütte quite brisk, driven by a thirst for coffee. We would have loved to stay a little longer, but we still had two strenuous ascents and descents to go. On consistently demanding, alpine paths, 1,000 meters in altitude are quite exhausting, especially since little Lotte also needs support here and there.The last notch with rope insurance was tough in the end. Because we thought we had done everything, but the descent over glacial slabs was endless. But here at the Noßberger Hütte it’s fantastic. This lake is turquoise like in the Caribbean, wonderful!
For us, the time in the Schobergruppe is unfortunately over again, but what a brilliant end! Today we followed the path of the water and climbed from the Noßberger Hütte through the magical Gradental back into the valley.We walked past mountain lakes, wild streams, shallow streams and steeply falling waterfalls, the water glistening in the sun. We later descended through a larch forest, which must be exceptional in autumn. When a farmer came towards us while driving the cows up, we hid Lotte behind my big backpack. What huge cows! They sniffed curiously, but Lotte remained undiscovered.A really nice final stage of an already extraordinarily beautiful hut tour. I am sure I will return to the Schobergruppe one more time, if only to climb the Hochschober. The paths here are very demanding, however, the gaps are steep, often insured and there is usually still a lot of snow this high up - it gets you down, but I love it!
Well, I can't really recommend this round. Actually, we just wanted to do a lap with Lotte on our day off. But it was so hot in the valley that we quickly took the gondola up the mountain. But really, it was so built up and overcrowded up here, terrible. On my demanding tours that I usually do, I almost forgot that there is such a thing.The only nice thing was that I could already see the Lizumer Reckner and the Geier from the small Filzenkogel viewing peak (2,227 meters), the mountains that I want to climb the day after tomorrow. Anyone have an idea where to go tomorrow? Tip: there are over 3,000.
You don't believe how frustrated I am! It could have been so perfect. We found a great parking space for our van, only 15 minutes away from the Schlegeis reservoir, where our ascent to the Hohe Riffler should start today. The night was great, at six we peeled out of bed full of anticipation, bright sunshine fueled the anticipation.But at the tollbooth came the sudden awakening. The nice lady did not let us drive the camper, we would occupy too much parking space. No chance to get to the starting point. I could have howled. Another 3,000 meter that doesn't work out.With the new tour planned without further ado, I also totally reached into the toilet. Professional hiking bloggers can also beat each other up, right? The Hintertux Glacier is totally built up and the sparse remnant is sad to look at. And then trucks loaded with building materials rushed past us. Here you can lose your desire for mountain hiking, I tell you.In the end, we cut the tour completely frustrated. I will have to practice again with the day hikes. To be honest, the “Wasserfallweg” descent was very nice. I didn't really like it, though. Only a little marmot, which looked so cute out of its burrow, cheered me up today.
Nice to shoulder the trekking backpack again and go on a hut tour, especially since the last two day tours in the Zillertal were not necessarily satisfactory. In two days we will now explore the Tux Alps. On the agenda today were the two highest peaks in the Alpine region, the Geier (2,857 meters) and the Lizumer Reckner (2,886 meters). In addition, we climbed 1,500 meters in altitude, in contrast to the rugged terrain of the Schober group, a pleasure.On the rather simple paths we climbed quickly through gentle hills to the Geier. Reward: All-round view of the Dolomites, the Großglockner, the Schobergruppe and the Stubai Alps, which are next on the list. Simply terrific in this dream weather!I took on the Reckner, only a few meters away, by myself. He was too exposed for Lotte and my company. That was a good thing, because the climbing was challenging enough for me too. I would definitely not want to climb more without safety. But the feeling of being at the top and above all safe and sound again at the bottom - priceless! The descent to the well-managed Lizumer hut was brisk, albeit through stony terrain. How does the shandy taste? The way it tastes when you've earned it 😋.
After the fantastic weather yesterday, today we hiked down in the clouds to the Tux valley. A gap and a small peak still had to be conquered. The definitely biggest challenge was crossing a huge cow pasture with a lot of young stunted animals. Not only were they standing directly on the way, but they were also extremely curious. We lingered in front of the pasture for almost an hour, thinking back and forth, but there was simply no alternative. And the pushy young animals did not leave our side.Our luck was a large group of hikers who took us and Lotte into their midst and brought us safely through the pasture. Phew, that was definitely the toughest cow pasture crossing I've ever had. But otherwise the tour was very nice despite the sea of clouds. Mountain lakes, fine paths and on the ascent and descent to the Grübelspitze (2,395 meters) there was a simple ridge path on top.I really liked the Tux Alps, especially in contrast to the other tours. Here it is mostly gentler, the paths easier and yet there was a real challenge for me yesterday with Lizumer Reckner.
It's good if there are two ways to the hut! The Stubai Alps greet us with bad weather: gray, wet and cold. The planned tour up to the Sulzenauhütte with an ascent of 1,500 meters was therefore not particularly tempting. Today we decided on a short variant over the "Wild Water Path".That was definitely not a bad choice. The path, which was lavishly laid out with wooden planks, was a pleasure. He led us past the 85 meter wide and often well-visited Grawa waterfall. But we soon left the crowds behind us and stepped up to the next fall and on to the Sulzenauhütte. How does it look here? I don't know 😂. The view was less than 20 meters.Unfortunately, things don't look any better for tomorrow and since the snow line has also dropped to 2,500 meters, the next 3,000-meter peak planned for tomorrow will probably fall into the water. Somehow I got used to it ...
No! I didn't go on an Alaska expedition quite spontaneously, I'm still in the Stubai Alps. But as you can see, I also accept snow in August with a smile when I'm allowed to be in the mountains.Ok, I've had more enjoyable tours, I'll admit that. It started in the pouring rain from the Sulzenauhütte this morning, the view was moderate and the path was like a stream. The higher we climbed, the whiter it got and finally it started to snow. But everything is easier than expected. Despite 20 centimeters of fresh snow and snow-covered markings, we found the way good.Sure, carefully, step by step, but thanks to Grödel, quite slip-free. We probably set the record for slow hiking for this Austria tour Tour. The rear Daunkopf, which I actually wanted to climb today, must now wait. Now I hope to finally be able to see the Stubai Glacier tomorrow and not only know ...
How nice when scary rainy days are replaced by sunshine!A brisk march from the Dresdener to the Neue Regensburger Hütte at an altitude of up to 2,900 meters with unclear snow conditions lay ahead of us this morning. How nice that the sun came out just in time for the start of the tour. She accompanied us even when thick clouds hung in the valley. Freshly sweetened mountains towered up on the horizon, sometimes more and less densely wrapped in clouds. In front of the fresh white on our paths, it just looked phenomenal. I am still very excited!The paths were particularly demanding today. Passages insured with ropes with fresh snow required all concentration. I involuntarily half-slid down a steep snowfield, finally faster than Lotte! But we arrived safe and in a very good mood at the great New Regensburger Hut. The Stubai Alps are slowly conquering my heart - such great mountains and landscapes!
On our last day in the Stubai Alps, the weather god meant it really well with us. Summer and winter within 48 hours, so to speak.Instead of descending directly from the Neue Regensburger Hütte, we quickly added a few more meters in altitude. It went up another 750 meters to the Kreuzspitze (3,084 meters). The snow was easy to manage, as was the easy block climbing at the end.I enjoyed the mountain splendor all by myself on the summit. I could see all the way to the Zugspitze, clouds rose wildly from the valley and the summit dropped abruptly on all sides. I deserve it! So beautiful.The more than 1,700 meters long descent into the valley, on the other hand, strained knees and feet. Since I was pretty queasy in between, while Lotte lively hopped over the tree roots. Thank you Stubai Alps for this extremely varied trekking.