Erneut auf der Blumeninsel mit 15 Wandertagen, 1.093 Kilometern im Mietwagen und 202 Kilometern auf Schusters Rappen.
After arriving by taxi, train and plane, I started my first tour to get in the right mood near the airport.From Machico it went steeply uphill on the PR1 to the Pico do Facho, from which you have a great view of the airport with the loading track protruding into the sea on high supports, the empty sandy beach of Machico, the São Lourenço peninsula and the port city of Caniçal ,From there it goes continuously downhill on a narrow, stony path on barren slopes to Caniçal, where I just caught the bus to get back to the starting point in a wild ride.
I took over this tour from Dani Köhl
danishome.ch/2018.07.03_Ribeira_dos_Moinhos_Levada_da_Achada_Grande.htmAfter an exciting trip on the north coast via the ER101 - actually it is only 8 km as the crow …
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I had several saved tours available for this tour, one from Eduardo (11.7 km) and one from Sebastian Kowalke (17.9 km), but they seemed too short for a day tour, so I decided on one of them again Dani Koehl
which should have 19.6 km and 850 m in altitude.At the end of the recording it was 1,130 hm, which Komoot converted to the map as usual and shrank to 720 hm. Unfortunately, the tour could be called up in the app, but not in the browser (Error 404, what's wrong with Komoot?). The only thing I could do was save a copy that can be edited, but has now shrunk to 670 m. The truth should be between 700 and 800, see explanation below.
I also had to date all pictures 1 hour 21 minutes and 30 seconds later ...
Unfortunately, the trick of simply driving into the Massif Central above the clouds in bad weather did not work, this time because Madeira is in the center of a low.
On the Pico Areeiro, sleet at 1 degree Celsius was waiting for me.
A guided tour nevertheless ventured on the slippery path to Pico Ruivo, but I'm still here for a few days and will try again later.
Komoot now crashes every few moments, some tours I can't even call (Error 404, but it works in the app) and now writing comments only works in exceptional cases ...Since after the failure at Pico Areeiro there were alternating cloud holes and torrential rain, I was drawn - and many others - to the Whale Museum, which is actually more of a whaling museum, as it mainly tells about the whaling imported from the Azores around Madeira.
Such exhibitions are a bit exhausting in Madeira, because in Disney style multimedia attempts are made to show great pictures, but the failure of the technology then leaves information behind. Instead of the headphones with bouncing announcements, read the signs.
Only in the last room are the marine mammals reported, but here the technology fails completely.From tomorrow the weather should finally get better ...; o)
The Levada of Santana is the greenest I've walked so far, followed by Caldeirão Verde, which runs a little above.
The Levada is neither signposted nor shown on the maps as a route, so there is nobody there and you have it all to yourself. It is easy to walk on, slightly exposed and then without security, but the wide paths hardly cause dizziness. Only on the last kilometer to the last of the four Madres will it be a bit daring, because you have to go through a light water curtain twice and also have to cross 300 meter tunnels.
The calm and the great prospects speak for themselves.
A small inlet of a fast flowing levada leads to another madre.
Some distance is missing because the Komoot app has crashed ...
The Levada do Castelejo, across from the imposing Eagle Rock, leads into a wild and romantic valley, almost from the beginning on exposed but secured ropes. However, the fuses are partially damaged by rockfalls. Relatively many people are traveling here.
On the Madre you have to work over slippery rocks.
That is the reason why the tours go online so late today: After the hikes, we went to Funchal for the carnival parade, in which thousands of participants from 13 groups dance to deafening music for a full 2.5 hours. The path is lined with grandstands, it is broadcast live on television. Unfortunately, it was still very windy from the pulling low, so that many participants had serious problems not to lose their lavish headdress.
I would also like to take this opportunity to congratulate Manggongjai on her birthday today: Happy 50th, if I'm not mistaken 🍾
Out of the corner of my eye I saw another leisure area, typically used by the locals.
This includes not only several benches and barbecues, but a large meadow area that is currently being mowed by a huge flock of sheep. A great many young lambs follow their sheep mothers and either let themselves be scared off or wanted to adopt me immediately as a mother substitute, which the mothers quickly prevented.
A little below is the Feiteiras de Baixo plateau, from which you can reach the tour from (again completely overcrowded) Riberio Frio to Portela on the Levada do Furado.
The metal avalanche that rolls every day to Riberio Frio and the Pico Areeiro, so that Google Maps in Riberio Frio even shows a traffic jam with red, even though they are all just looking for parking spaces along the road, rolls through the little one almost without ceasing Place Achada do Cedro Gordo, which has just two streets and where no one stops. Therefore, the snack bar and church are also closed, another restaurant has already collapsed and is overgrown with plants.
I stopped here and went through the small paths between the houses as well as on the old farm road, which leads in long serpentines with wavy rubble stones into the valley to Fajã Grande.
From here you have a picturesque view of the towering central massif framed by the green slopes.
Actually, I had saved several variants to realize a visit to the botanical garden, but then found the planned use of the cable car too bleak and not optimal in terms of fear of heights, so I just started the recording and started running.The tour starts in Bom Sucesso, a district below the botanical garden. Here a levada (blocked by signs) leads into the valley of the Ribeira de João Gomes. Slope stabilization work is currently being carried out on the Levada. There are a few unsecured exposed spots, but most of them are very well secured. After 2 km the path leaves the Levada and now leads up an infinite number of steps 300 m up, in the lower part very steep with monster steps, in the upper part then with a comfortable step size. Branches to waterfalls are marked twice on the way, but not a drop is currently flowing in the entire valley.
I was surprised last year when I came through Porto Moniz why there are so many hotels, restaurants and guests here, even though it is probably the most remote corner of the island. So I went for a walk through the town.Porto Moniz lives from the "natural" swimming pools. There are two of them. A commercial one with entrance that was built far into the surf, so that the waves break at the pool edge and water fountains pour over the bathers. And one set back something that is accessible free of charge, where you can float in the lava stone-shaped pools, take diving courses and simply walk along the paths. There is still an aquarium, but according to reports it is very small, so there are still plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops.
This tour was born spontaneously when I discovered that a levada, the Lavada do Cantinho, winds around my holiday destination. So I looked for an entry point and am off. The levada leads through the orchards and vegetable gardens of the residents and several times via the tunnel entrances of the expressway to Funchal. Dogs and goats are everywhere, there is crafting and gardening everywhere. Finally, I was stopped by a waterfall pounding on the Levada in gushing stream. I had a poncho with me, but it would have been a full bath and the path afterwards looked pretty unused. So I climbed back up to the houses through the next best garden and walked back through the streets to the starting point.It is surprising how many of the so-called Sanata houses, one of the island's landmarks, are actually still inhabited and lovingly cared for.