Countryside, coast and history – Spain’s Empordà plain by bike

There aren't many regions where the mountains meet the sea, but the Empordà plain is one of them. The lowlands of the Ter and Fluvià rivers, located between the Mediterranean and the foothills of the Pyrenees, are home to orchards, medieval monuments, beaches, and coves.

Between the waves and the hills, a network of paths and roads weave through the countryside, linking the maritime charm of the region with the important Romanesque heritage of its villages. The concentration of castles, bell towers and remains of walls that stand amidst the fields, reveal that this land has been immensely valued for centuries.

This landscape, irrigated by the waters of the Ter and the Fluvià, forms a colourful scene that changes with the seasons. Water seems to play a secondary role, but it's one of the main protagonists. On the route, you cross majestic rivers several times and also cycle along other smaller rivers, such as the Daró or the Vell, whose contribution to the environment is remarkable. And, as if that weren't enough, you can also ride along the Mediterranean, as it hugs the Costa Brava. It's on this coastline that you can find the remains of the impressive Greek and Roman city of Ampurias.

I invite you to cycle for two days on a 100-kilometre (62 mi) loop on roads and farm tracks from Torroella de Montgrí, at the foot of the massif, to the sea. On the way, you ride through the charming cobbled villages of the hinterland. You can get to Torroella de Montgrí by bus from Girona, but remember to check if you can travel with your bike. Alternatively, you could drive. There are several free car parks around Torroella.

The route is almost flat. In total, the elevation gain is less than 800 metres (2,600 ft). The landscape between the villages is in parts wild and agricultural. The river banks are covered with reeds and trees. In the cultivated areas, there are fields of corn, olive groves, fruit trees and cereals. In the westernmost part of the route, you find roads through beautiful Mediterranean forests.

On this adventure, you can travel light. The distance between the villages, each more picturesque than the last, is short, and you'll want to stop at each castle or bell tower to breathe in the medieval atmosphere, take a photo, and get to know the place a little better. Palau-sator, La Bisbal, Cruïlles, Madremanya, Sant Martí Vell, and Verges are just a few of the villages with cobbled streets and Romanesque monuments that you visit. Each of them will provide you with water and food.

This Tour is suitable for all types of bikes as the paths aren't technically difficult. In terms of physical condition, the small difference in altitude makes it very accessible. The climate is mild all year round. However, in winter, the cold wind of the Tramuntana is frequent, and in summer, the heat attracts many tourists. That's why I recommend you start between spring and autumn, when the sun gilds the landscape.

I hope you enjoy this cycling adventure through the medieval heritage of the sea and land of the Empordà.