Stromboliens, peléens and maars – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne

Hiking Collection by SimonWicart

days

4-8 h

/ day

130 mi

21,975 ft

20,100 ft

In his song ‘L'Auvergnat’, Georges Brassens wonderfully poetised the warmth that shines through the inhabitants of these volcanic lands. Occupying the centre of France, the Auvergne is an exceptional land, as ancient as it is placid.

It can be recognised first of all by the green curves of its historic volcanoes, a procession of slumbering domes. The landscape reveals itself in the gorgeous colours of its granite massifs, sedimentary plains, opulent forests and generous lakes.

Alexandre Vialatte, a famous author of the region, claimed that ‘qu’elle est un secret plutôt qu’une province’ (‘it is a secret rather than a province’). In this Collection, I reveal the secret of this volcanic natural arena, with its unique panoramas and wonderful surprises.

For this itinerary, I suggest you start in Riom. The town, located half an hour's drive north of Clermont-Ferrand, is also accessible by train. Eleven stages later, you end up in the heart of the medieval town of Murat, a 90-minute drive from Clermont-Ferrand and regularly served by a TER line.

From Riom, you follow the GR 4, which takes you to the most magical summits in Auvergne: the Puy de Dôme, the Puy de Sancy and the Cantal. Between the rolling valleys, flowery plains and deep forests, you pass through several villages with quintessential Auvergne architecture. The black stones that make up the buildings are taken from volcanic rocks.

During your walk, don't hesitate to sample the local food. Saint-Nectaire cheese, truffade with fresh Cantal tomato, or meat from the Charolais, Aubrac or Salers breeds, are a few Auvergne dishes to try.

As far as accommodation is concerned, I suggest you bring a tent and stove. Between the volcanoes that dot the centre of France, nature is glorious and deserves special attention. Wild camping is tolerated, as long as you pitch your tent at bedtime and pack down at dawn, except in areas around the Monts Dore, which I refer to in the stage descriptions. If you opt to camp, don't forget what Sylvain Tesson wrote in ‘Les forêts de Sibérie’: ‘Lorsqu’on quitte un lieu de bivouac, prendre soin de laisser deux choses. Premièrement : rien. Deuxièmement : ses remerciements’ (‘When leaving a bivouac site, take care to leave two things. Firstly: nothing. Secondly: your thanks’). For those who prefer the charm of gîtes and mountain huts, a wide range of accommodation is available on almost all the stages.

Apart from winter, all seasons are suitable for this itinerary. Nevertheless, keep an eye on the weather forecast. Hiking here is dangerous in stormy weather, particularly on the peaks.

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Crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne

138 mi

22,450 ft

20,600 ft

Last updated: March 22, 2023

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Tours & Highlights

Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors
Stage 1: Riom to Puy de la Nugère – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
05:32
11.5 mi
2.1 mph
2,575 ft
500 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
Here you are on your way for a beautiful roaming in the most volcanic region of metropolitan France. This route starts at Riom station, easily accessible from Clermont-Ferrand. Charming city, I invite you to discover its winding streets, punctuated by many religious buildings. My favorite is the Saint…
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Stage 2: Puy de la Nugère to the Traversin – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
04:35
9.68 mi
2.1 mph
1,600 ft
1,100 ft
Intermediate
Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.
During this second stage, I suggest a walk on the peaks of the volcanoes which, for millennia, have shaken the region.

From the Puy de la Nugère, you follow the red and white markings of the GR 441. In the forests topped with pines, you progress in pleasant nature. The test is short so, if you feel like…
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Stage 3: Traversin to Montlosier – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
04:58
9.85 mi
2.0 mph
1,750 ft
2,275 ft
Intermediate
Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
During this third stage, I invite you to continue the dance that you lead to the top of the old volcanoes of Auvergne. And to start, I suggest you one of the most legendary in the region: the Puy de Dôme. From the Traversin plateau, the climb is pleasant and does not require great physical effort. On…
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Stage 4: Montlosier to Mont-Dore – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
08:40
17.8 mi
2.1 mph
3,150 ft
2,800 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
With just over 30 kilometres, this fourth stage is one of the longest of your journey through the heart of the Auvergne volcanoes.

After a good rest at the Montlosier gîte, I invite you first of all to slalom on the GR 4, between forests and volcanoes, towards the towns of Saulzet-le-Froid and Pessade…
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Stage 5: Mont-Dore to Super-Besse – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
04:37
8.04 mi
1.7 mph
2,775 ft
1,900 ft
Intermediate
Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.
During this fifth stage, I suggest you set off to climb one of the roofs of Auvergne and its 1,886 meters of altitude, the Puy de Sancy. The drop is tough and once on the ridges, the course can become more difficult. Indeed, the path sometimes runs along steep slopes and takes certain ladder passages…
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Stage 6: Super-Besse to Égliseneuve-d'Entraigues – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
04:18
9.86 mi
2.3 mph
275 ft
1,475 ft
Intermediate
Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
During this sixth stage, I suggest you leave the station of Super-Besse by the GR 4 to reach the bucolic village of Egliseneuve-d'Entraigues.

On the road, you cannot miss the Notre-Dame de Vassivière chapel, renowned locally for its miraculous waters, and nationally for the pilgrimage that takes place…
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Stage 7: Égliseneuve-d'Entraigues to Boutaresse – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
05:01
10.8 mi
2.2 mph
1,750 ft
850 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.
During this seventh stage, I invite you to join the trail of the GR 30 for a slight detour to the waterfalls that enchant the north of Entraigues. Entraigues waterfall or Bois de Chaux waterfall, stop at the foot of both to enjoy the hard-hitting and unbridled sound of mountain water. At the heart of…
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Stage 8: Boutaresse to Marcenat – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
05:03
11.1 mi
2.2 mph
1,100 ft
1,600 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
During this eighth stage, I invite you to leave the marked routes to lose yourself in the bumpy mountains of Cézalliers. This high plateau battered by the winds and entirely covered with pastures, lakes and peat bogs is easily compared to some Scottish fresco.

You leave Boutaresse by a small path that…
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Stage 9: Marcenat to En Chabargou – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
06:37
14.6 mi
2.2 mph
1,975 ft
1,125 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.
During this ninth stage, you return to the paths marked by the GR 4. But before that, you cross the bucolic village of Saint-Bonnet-de-Condat. Despite its tiny size, the village has a campsite and an adjoining restaurant. If, at this level, a stop seems early to you, you can continue to Lugarde where…
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Stage 10: En Chabargou to Lioran station – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
07:05
13.9 mi
2.0 mph
2,500 ft
2,800 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.
During this tenth stage, I invite you to leave the paths of Cézalliers to head for your last peaks. The most observant can already see it from the plateau, the Puy Mary and its strictly triangular shape are waiting for you!

Before tackling the ascent of one of Cantal's most famous volcanoes, take a break…
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Stage 11: Lioran station to Murat – crossing the volcanoes of Auvergne
06:52
13.3 mi
1.9 mph
2,550 ft
3,700 ft
Expert
Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.
For this last stage, I suggest you climb on the roof of Cantal before descending quietly towards the medieval city of Murat.

From Lioran, the ascent is rather steep. Do not hesitate to take your time to observe, as you climb, the station which becomes smaller and smaller. If these last days have tired…
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