Crossing the Mercantour National Park – GR 52

This Collection could easily be called ‘marvellous valleys and mountains’. Crossing almost the entire Alpes-Maritimes department, this 112-kilometre (70 mi) route, divided into six stages, will take you through the Mercantour National Park. This wonderfully-diverse region boasts many archaeological treasures.

This southern part of the French Alps was an Italian territory for a very long time. It was after the Treaty of Turin on 24 March 1860 that Savoy and Nice were attached to France. This was made possible after a plebiscite organised among the people of Nice and Savoy. It’s for this reason that you find many Italian-sounding names along the route.

One of the highlights of this Collection is the archaeological zone of the engravings on Mount Bego. This is the Valley of Wonders, which contains countless petroglyphs engraved on over 4,000 rocks. The whole area is spread over some 1,700 hectares (4,200 ac) and allows you to step back in time to the Bronze Age. The opportunity to observe wild animals in their natural environment is another great perk, too.

The Collection takes place at high altitude, often around 3,000 metres (9,843 ft). As such, it isn’t suitable for all abilities. You need a good level of fitness, as there are no easy hikes or recovery days on this itinerary.

Wild camping is forbidden and bivouacs are only allowed near huts. To reassure you, you should know that four of the six stages are under 17 kilometres (11 mi) and can be completed in five hours.

There’s no need to overload your backpack, as all the refuges and lodges en route offer meals in addition to a place in a dormitory or a single room. A medium-sized pack should suffice. Be sure to make reservations as soon as possible.

Please note that, as some parts of the park are protected because of the precious petroglyphs, it’s forbidden to use walking sticks, unless you add rubber tips.

The hike starts in the village of Saint-Dalmas-de-Valdeblore. To get there, you must pass through Saint-Martin-de-Vésubie, which is only accessible by bus from Nice. At the end of the route, you arrive at the SNCF station of Garavan near Menton and the Italian border. From there all return options are possible.

Don’t attempt this hike in the middle of winter, early spring, or late autumn. Snow makes it impractical. The best period is from the beginning of June to mid-October. In the middle of summer, this GR is a victim of its popularity and the paths can get busy.

Make sure you have good hiking boots and warm clothes in all seasons, as mountain weather is unpredictable.

It’s important to know that there are two official departures from the GR 52. The itinerary I propose here is the short version. Since the summer of 2022, there has been an extension of the route which totals 17 days and starts in the village of Entraunes. This addition has been delayed while the trails damaged by the winter storm Alex in 2020 are restored.