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Among ancient Walser settlements – GTA North Piedmont

Herwig Aertbelien

Among ancient Walser settlements – GTA North Piedmont

Hiking Collection by Marika Abbà

19-43

days

3-6 h

/ day

187 mi

67,975 ft

61,350 ft

The Great Traverse of the Alps, better known as the GTA, is a route that links the north and south of the Piedmont region. It starts at Lake Maggiore, makes brief forays into Switzerland and France, before ending in Ormea, a small municipality on the border with Liguria.

In this Collection, I explore the route’s northern section. You will leave from Cannobio, go north, enter Canton Ticino, Switzerland and finally return to Italy. The route will take you through small hamlets and Walser villages, where you will get to know this culture intimately and admire the architecture that characterises it.

During the 12th and 13th centuries, the first Wallisers, inhabitants of the Upper Valais region of Switzerland, moved to these areas. This migration was down to the more favourable conditions for sheep farming and agriculture than in their country of origin. Their Germanic language has been preserved over the centuries, becoming the 'Titsch' dialect and they took the name 'Walser'.

The route comprises 300 kilometres (186 mi) of developed trails and over 20,000 metres (65,500 ft) of elevation gain. If these numbers put you off, do not fear, it’s relatively straightforward to split the route up into individual smaller sections to tackle it over time. In many of the villages, you can find regular buses or private transfers to the larger towns, where there are railway stations, with connections to the major cities in northern Italy.

The best time to set out is from mid-June to mid-September. Each stage begins and ends at a suitable spot for accommodation, whether they’re small family-run hotels, mountain huts or bivouacs. In this section of the GTA there are many unmanaged huts, so I recommend that you equip yourself with a sleeping bag, a good supply of food – rice, freeze-dried soups, energy bars and dried fruit all work well – and water. You will often find pillows, blankets and small wood-burning stoves inside these rudimentary shelters, but it is good to always have a small stove with you just in case.

Wear breathable, warm clothing and have a waterproof ready in your backpack. I recommend a pair of sturdy boots and don't forget your trekking poles, they will help take the weight off your knees and other joints.

The start point of Cannobio can be reached by bus from the Verbania-Pallanza station. See here for the timetable (in Italian): vcotrasporti.it/it/orari.php. Verbania is connected to Milan by direct trains.

From the Rivetti Refuge, on the other hand, you will have to walk down for about 5 kilometres (3 mi) to Piedicavallo and take the bus from there: line 340, bound for Biella. It stops in the square in front of the station. You can find all the details here: atapspa.it/en/linee/linee-urbane-biella.

Alternatively, you can take the central section of the GTA, which you can find here: komoot.com/collection/1813919.

Happy walking!

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Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA) – Nord Piemonte

187 mi

68,075 ft

61,500 ft

Last updated: January 8, 2023

Plan your own version of this adventure in the multi-day planner based on the stages suggested in this Collection.

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Tours & Highlights

  • Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

    Stage 1: Cannobio to Falmenta – GTA North Piedmont

    Intermediate
    04:28
    8.53 mi
    1.9 mph
    2,450 ft
    925 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    The first stage of the GTA Nord starts from Cannobio, on the shores of the famous Lake Maggiore, a border area between two Italian regions, Piedmont and Lombardy, and between two states, Italy and Switzerland. The track leads you towards the extraordinary Orrido di Sant'Anna, a canyon where the water

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  • Expert
    06:22
    11.2 mi
    1.8 mph
    3,350 ft
    2,650 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    The second stage begins immediately with a rather demanding climb that leads you to Mergugna, an enchanting place, where the thick vegetation blends perfectly with the ancient stone and wood houses. Around you now there are rows of mountains, the lake is now far away.

    

    A long ups and downs takes you to

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  • Expert
    05:45
    8.65 mi
    1.5 mph
    3,375 ft
    2,800 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Leave the pearl of the Val Vigezzo behind you and take the uphill path to the Bocchetta di Sant'Antonio. At the top is a small chapel, where you can stop for a break. If the weather permits, from here you have a breathtaking view of the imposing and wonderful Monte Rosa massif.

    

    The descent takes you north

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  • Expert
    04:23
    5.70 mi
    1.3 mph
    3,150 ft
    1,200 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    The steep climb wakes up your body still numb from sleep and in a short time takes you to the Capanna Alpe Salei, at an altitude of 1,777 metres. The refuge is located on an old pasture. The spaces are large and verdant, which makes this place perfect for taking a break and, why not, even a second breakfast

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  • Intermediate
    04:39
    7.49 mi
    1.6 mph
    1,500 ft
    2,825 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's path leads you right away between high summer pastures, one of which is Alpe di Porcaresc, a picturesque place, surrounded by gentle hills and coniferous forests. The stone cabins renovated over time and the sweeping views over the valley make this place special.

    

    Coast Lake Cavegna and get off

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  • Expert
    06:00
    7.47 mi
    1.2 mph
    3,400 ft
    2,750 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Say goodbye to the beautiful Campo and take the path that climbs steeply through the larch forest and reaches Alpe Quadrella. Fatigue makes itself felt, but I suggest you take some time here and there to enjoy the world around you and catch your breath: the views are unique.

    

    A final rather steep uphill

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  • Expert
    06:24
    8.31 mi
    1.3 mph
    3,050 ft
    3,725 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's stage takes you back to Piedmont, so say goodbye to Bosco Gurin and walk along the path that runs alongside enchanting slides and small waterfalls. A succession of breathtaking landscapes accompany you to the Capanna Grossalp, located on the homonymous alp. Here you can take a break in view of

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  • Intermediate
    02:08
    3.86 mi
    1.8 mph
    1,600 ft
    125 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    Today's stage is rather quiet, the climb is gradual and allows you to enjoy every detail of the landscape that surrounds you. Start again from Ponte di Formazza and follow the course of the Toce river upstream. As the path increases its inclination, the huge and spectacular Toce waterfall appears in

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  • Expert
    03:36
    4.72 mi
    1.3 mph
    2,750 ft
    1,275 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Depart from Riale and head towards Furculti. The path leaves room for a dirt road that climbs to Alpe Nefelgiù. From here on, the track becomes demanding and the slope steep, reaching its peak at the top of Passo di Nefelgiù, at an altitude of 2,583 metres. From this Alpine pass the view extends from

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  • Expert
    05:14
    8.69 mi
    1.7 mph
    1,425 ft
    3,250 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's stage is one of the most spectacular in all of the GTA North, so put on your boots and hit the road. Walk along the shores of Lake Vannino, reach Alpe Curzalama, from where you can enjoy a spectacular view of the artificial basin and conquer the Scatta Minoia Pass, which connects Val Formazza

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  • Expert
    06:25
    8.71 mi
    1.4 mph
    3,250 ft
    2,800 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Say goodbye to Alpe Devero and head towards Buscagna, where an almost flat stretch leads you to the climb to Scatta d'Orogna (2,462 m). The pass is incredibly panoramic: you have a majestic view of the Alps, Val Buscagna and the Devero Lake Reserve.

    

    Follow the short downhill stretch, then regain altitude

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  • Intermediate
    04:29
    7.64 mi
    1.7 mph
    1,575 ft
    1,675 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Depart from the Città di Arona refuge and head towards La Balma, a small village characterized by stone huts, surrounded by majestic peaks.

    

    A long ups and downs takes you first under the walls of the Torri di Veglia, then to Alpe Ciamporino, a highly sought-after destination in the Ossola area in summer

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  • Intermediate
    04:16
    7.31 mi
    1.7 mph
    825 ft
    4,600 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's stage offers you sweeping panoramas and a very long, rather steep downhill stretch. Depart from Alpe Solcio and head towards Alpe Genuina. The path is almost flat and you can fully enjoy the surrounding landscape. Once you reach the stone huts of the old pasture, you can take a break for refreshment

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  • Expert
    08:37
    10.7 mi
    1.2 mph
    5,875 ft
    2,150 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    This stage is very demanding and requires great physical and mental preparation. If desired, it is possible to divide it into two tranches by staying overnight at Bivacco Stefanetti, which is located about halfway. The most challenging stretch, in fact, is the one that connects Varzo with Alpe Lorino

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  • Expert
    03:19
    5.06 mi
    1.5 mph
    1,675 ft
    650 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Today's stage is the cool-down of the previous one. Start from the Il Dosso refuge and proceed in the direction of the Oratory of San Benedetto. This place is very popular on hot summer days, so much so that there are numerous picnic tables where you can take a break. With a short detour you can also

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  • Expert
    05:24
    7.23 mi
    1.3 mph
    1,850 ft
    3,525 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    From the Alpe il Laghetto refuge, a short downhill stretch takes you to the Emilio Marigonda bivouac, from where a slight climb begins towards Alpe Campo. From here the path gets lost at times, but the direction is easily guessed: you cross the pasture plateau and you reach Alpe Preja, from where the

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  • Expert
    06:23
    8.53 mi
    1.3 mph
    3,250 ft
    3,000 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    From Alpe Cheggio go down to Antronapiana following the enchanting mule track bordered by ancient dry-stone walls and thick vegetation. Once you reach the town, follow the course of the Ovesca torrent and after a kilometer from the hamlet of Prato, take the path that climbs steadily to Alpe Prei.

    

    Immerse

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  • Intermediate
    02:47
    4.22 mi
    1.5 mph
    0 ft
    3,525 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Leave Alpe Colma behind you and go down towards Alpi Prer and La Barca. The mule tracks that connect the different villages offer beautiful views over the whole Anzasca Valley and the surrounding mountains. Take some time to stroll through the streets of Olino, an enchanting village which, thanks to

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  • Expert
    04:20
    5.10 mi
    1.2 mph
    3,800 ft
    225 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    From the center of Molini di Calasca head towards the Madonna della Gurva Sanctuary, one of the most important places of worship in the Anzasca Valley and take the mule track that first crosses the chestnut groves and then a fascinating beech forest until you reach Alpe Camino.

    

    From here on the slope

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  • Expert
    08:05
    10.5 mi
    1.3 mph
    3,900 ft
    5,225 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Start again from the Amedeo Pirozzini refuge and reach Alpe Pian del Lago, where the bivouac of the same name is located. From here, take the path that climbs first gradually, then steadily to Lake Ravinella. Once you reach the banks of the reservoir, you can take a break and enjoy the tranquility of

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Collection Stats

  • Tours
    25
  • Distance
    187 mi
  • Duration
    131:27 h
  • Elevation
    67,975 ft61,350 ft

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