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Hiking in Italy’s Occitan valleys — GTA South Piedmont

Antonio Lauro

Hiking in Italy’s Occitan valleys — GTA South Piedmont

Hiking Collection by Marika Abbà

21

days

2-9 h

/ day

176 mi

56,375 ft

59,750 ft

The Great Traverse of the Alps is a grandiose route, covering more than 1,000 kilometres (600 mi) and running along the entire north-western Alpine side of Italy. It starts on the shores of Lake Maggiore, in northern Piedmont, on the border with Lombardy and Switzerland, makes forays into French territory and ends in Ormea, on the watershed with Liguria. It’s divided into three sections: north, centre and south.

How can you tell if a path is part of the GTA or not? Simple, if there are notches with three red-white-red bands, the path definitely belongs to this immense network of trails.

In this Collection, I’ve decided to focus on the southern section of the Traverse, the one that, for me, is synonymous with home. The official stages of this part of the route are numbered 51 to 71, but here you will find them from 1 to 21.

I will guide you through the Occitan valleys of Piedmont, where the Languedoc language is still spoken. This historic language was mentioned by Dante in the Purgatory, when he had Arnaut Daniel speak it, a troubadour who lived between the 12th and 13th centuries. The language was used by the troubadours to sing Amor Cortese in the courts of the great lords of the time. Occitan culture and language have evolved and been handed down over the centuries to the present day. It is now expressed as a strong sense of belonging that unites all those who live in the Alpine valleys of southern Piedmont, in the French Midi to the Pyrenees, in what is known as Occitania. The Occitan Cross, symbol of this large area, binds peoples of different nations under the same language and music, as well as uniting them in literature.

You will leave from the Pellice Valley, home of the Waldensians, take a bow in front of the undisputed King of the Cottian Alps, Monviso, and continue towards the Queen of the Maritimes, Argentera. Alpine lakes, waterfalls and wide meadows will accompany you to the land of karst, where you’ll find the scent of saltiness: the sea is not far away and the Ligurian Alps surround you. This is where you conclude your journey in Ormea, in the Tanaro Valley, a stone's throw from Liguria.

This route is suitable for all those who know how to move well in alpine environments and who have no problem covering long distances and large differences in altitude. It’s best hiked from mid-June to mid-September, although in the early summer months residual snow can still be found at higher altitudes.

Accommodation is generally in alpine huts, which I recommend contacting for a bed well in advance. Alternatively, you can take a tent with you, but bear in mind that you will be passing through several nature parks, so don't forget to check the different regulations. In principle, the wild camping rule applies, i.e. you can set up your tent an hour before sunset and take it down an hour after sunrise, but in some protected areas there may be designated areas where you can set up camp.

Bring technical clothing, some warmer clothes, waterproof outers, a windbreaker, a large water bottle or bladder, a good supply of snack bars, a sleeping bag, and a pair of sturdy boots and poles. You can ask the hut keepers to prepare you a packed lunch for the following day for a small supplement on the overnight rate.

The Barbara Lowrie hut can be reached in about half an hour by car from Bobbio Pellice. You can reach the Pellice Valley by taking a train from Turin to Pinerolo and then travelling up the valley by bus. To reach the refuge, however, you will need to organise a private transfer. From Ormea, on the other hand, you can go by bus to Ceva and from there take a train in the direction of Turin or Savona.

As we would say in Occitan: Bon chamin! Happy walking!

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Grande Traversata delle Alpi (GTA) – Sud Piemonte

172 mi

55,850 ft

59,175 ft

Last updated: February 23, 2023

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Tours & Highlights

  • Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

    Stage 1: the Barbara Lowrie hut to the Quintino Sella hut — GTA South Piedmont

    07:13
    9.13 mi
    1.3 mph
    4,625 ft
    1,825 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    The first stage of the southern section of the GTA immerses you in the atmosphere of Val Pellice, a valley inhabited by the Waldensian community. The members of this Protestant confession, born in the twelfth century, suffered several persecutions over the centuries, but after years of hiding, in August

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  • 05:43
    9.10 mi
    1.6 mph
    1,000 ft
    4,325 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Leave from the Refuge dedicated to Quintino Sella, the one who led the first Italian expedition to the summit of Monviso in 1863 and who immediately founded the CAI, the Italian Alpine Club. Reach the Gallarino Pass and the San Chiaffredo Pass, two passes immersed in a rocky, almost hostile environment

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  • 04:10
    5.32 mi
    1.3 mph
    2,225 ft
    2,725 ft
    Intermediate
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Retrace the short stretch of the lakefront backwards and take the path that climbs steadily and steadily along the slope characterized by a larch forest. Going up, there are beautiful views of Monviso, Punta Tre Chiosis and many other peaks that exceed 3,000 meters above sea level.

    

    The scenario expands

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  • 03:52
    5.98 mi
    1.5 mph
    2,625 ft
    2,125 ft
    Intermediate
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's stage takes you to two truly wonderful villages. The first is Chiesa, in the Varaita Valley, the starting point, and the second is Elva, in the Maira Valley, the destination of the day. All you have to do is put on your backpack and take the path in the larch forest that leads you to Colle della

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  • 03:51
    6.61 mi
    1.7 mph
    1,050 ft
    3,275 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    From Borgata Serre take the path that leads to Borgata Mattalia and continue towards Colle San Giovanni, a very panoramic place, a small earthly paradise. Here you can take a break and fill your bottle at the fountain or take a short detour to see the Fremo Cuncunà, a rock that protrudes into the void

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  • 04:35
    7.46 mi
    1.6 mph
    2,500 ft
    1,400 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Today's stage takes you to the land of the anchovies. Yes, it is bizarre to think of anchovies when immersed in a purely alpine environment, but that's the way it is. Walking through the hamlets of Albaretto, Bassura, Paschero and Celle Macra you will notice the traces of two itinerant trades: that of

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  • 06:07
    9.45 mi
    1.5 mph
    3,400 ft
    1,825 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Today's itinerary follows an ancient pilgrimage route to the Sanctuary of San Magno, your destination. The coniferous woods give way to round and verdant reliefs, the path climbs up the Crosetta Pass, where there are numerous wooden crosses. In the past, pilgrims, coming from the Maira Valley, carried

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  • 06:35
    10.9 mi
    1.7 mph
    2,450 ft
    4,325 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Leave the Sanctuary of San Magno and head towards Colle Fauniera. Much of this first uphill stretch takes place on a paved road, but not just any one, the one that made the cyclist Pantani famous back in 1999 for his great feat at the Giro d'Italia. The inclination, in fact, reaches peaks of 15%, so

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  • 05:57
    6.79 mi
    1.1 mph
    3,650 ft
    3,350 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    This stage makes you immerse yourself in the beautiful atmosphere of the Stura Valley, a wide, border valley, which over the centuries has seen the passage of pilgrims, armies and travelers.

    

    The path takes you up the slope immersed in the coniferous forest until you reach the nineteenth-century military

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  • 04:57
    6.04 mi
    1.2 mph
    3,550 ft
    1,175 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    This stage brings you back into contact with the high mountains, but above all it leads you to one of the most important places in the Stura Valley and the Cuneo area: the Sant’Anna di Vinadio Sanctuary. The sanctuary is the destination every year of many hikers, believers and non-believers, who start

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  • 05:44
    8.57 mi
    1.5 mph
    2,550 ft
    3,100 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Backpack on your shoulder and set out along the road first and then the path that leads to the Colle Sant'Anna lake, a mirror of water of glacial origin. Proceed uphill until you reach the natural border between Italy and France: for about two kilometers it will be a continuous zig-zag between the two

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  • 06:16
    9.41 mi
    1.5 mph
    2,300 ft
    3,700 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    This stage is in terms of landscape one of the most beautiful of the southern section of the GTA. Depart from the Malinvern Refuge, flank the lake of the same name and reach the Colletto di Valscura, from which the large body of water that you will meet shortly along the descent is clearly visible. The

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  • 06:49
    9.46 mi
    1.4 mph
    3,925 ft
    1,950 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Get back on your way and take the path that climbs the hairpin bends in a wonderful beech forest. Along the way it is not difficult to meet chamois and, further up, curious ibex. Just outside the woods, the majestic Corno Stella appears in front of you, an iconic mountain, loved above all by mountaineers

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  • 03:52
    5.15 mi
    1.3 mph
    1,675 ft
    2,225 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Say goodbye to the Genova Refuge, Lake Brocan and the Chiotas Basin and head towards Colle delle Fenestrelle along the detrital valley. The climb is quite steep, but once you get to the hill, all you have to do is enjoy the spectacle of the surrounding mountains.

    

    The descent towards the Soria Ellena Refuge

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  • 07:36
    12.4 mi
    1.6 mph
    2,400 ft
    4,875 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    Today's stage begins with a long descent into the wide Vallone della Barra, the last part of which, behind the town of San Giacomo d’Entracque, is characterized by a beautiful beech forest. Continue on the right bank of the Gesso della Barra stream and take the uphill path that enters the Vallone della

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  • 05:21
    7.07 mi
    1.3 mph
    3,650 ft
    2,725 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Leave the town of Trinità d’Entracque behind you and take the steep path that climbs to Caire di Porcera. From this point you can admire the peaks surrounding Entracque and catch your breath before continuing the last uphill stretch, this time more gradual, to Colle della Garbella.

    

    From the 2,170 meters

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  • 04:58
    6.66 mi
    1.3 mph
    2,875 ft
    3,075 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Sure-footedness, sturdy shoes and alpine experience required.

    From Palanfré take the path that goes into the Bandito Wood. This fascinating beech forest is so called, since deforestation has been forbidden for centuries: the trees protect the village from avalanches.

    

    Mount Frisson, nicknamed the Piccolo Cervino, appears outside the dense forest. Go up the Vallone

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  • 09:33
    15.9 mi
    1.7 mph
    5,125 ft
    2,975 ft
    Expert
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    From Limonetto take the cart road that climbs to Colle di Tenda, located on the border between Italy and France and continue in the direction of the Central Fort. The border line is characterized by large fortifications dating back to the nineteenth century, built using local materials and rocks. In

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  • 02:16
    3.03 mi
    1.3 mph
    825 ft
    1,450 ft
    Intermediate
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today's stage is quite short, it will be used to recover energy and fully enjoy the views of the Marguareis Natural Park.

    

    Leaving the Garelli Refuge, walk along the Pian del Lupo and begin the climb towards Porta Sestrera (or Passo di Lapassè) at 2,228 meters above sea level. This alpine pass marks the

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  • 04:38
    7.01 mi
    1.5 mph
    1,950 ft
    2,775 ft
    Intermediate
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Take the path that proceeds towards Gias Pra Canton and at the next crossroads take the one that leads to Passo delle Saline, at 2,177 meters above sea level. The climb is quite steep, so I advise you to proceed calmly without taking unnecessary shortcuts. Enjoy the view at the top of the mountain pass

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Collection Stats

  • Tours
    21
  • Distance
    176 mi
  • Duration
    117:19 h
  • Elevation
    56,375 ft59,750 ft

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