Le sud Sarladais — the Grand Tour of the Périgord noir

South-western France’s Périgord region, situated between the mountains of the Auvergne and the vineyards of Bordeaux, is truly multi-coloured. In order to underline the particularities of these micro-regions, they have been given four distinctive colours.

Purple is the colour of the town of Bergerac and its surroundings, where the vine is omnipresent. The white in the centre of the department and near the town of Périgueux takes its name from the limestone plateaus. The green Périgord, located the furthest north, is hilly and dotted with meadows and beautiful oak forests. The Périgord that interests us most though, is the one located around the town of Sarlat. The colour black has been chosen here and it refers to the dark green oaks which are very present in this part of the Dordogne. The undergrowth is dense, giving the landscape a mysterious feel. It’s also the land of black truffles.

This Collection lets you discover the lesser known part of the Sarladais. The itinerary starts south of Sarlat-la-Canéda, in the town of Domme. Here, the Dordogne River is majestic, and the villages and castles perched along the river add to the magic.

You’ll be amazed by the number of castles you see along this 9-stage, 190 kilometre (118 mi) route. The towns and villages seem to have come straight out of the Middle Ages, without having aged a bit. Not a day goes by without surprises.

The special thing about this Collection is that it takes you to places that are seldom visited. The paths and small roads are shaded and blissful to walk along, while the diversity of the landscapes is remarkable.

I don’t recommend hiking in winter in this region, as everything is likely to be closed. However, all other seasons are great. For me, May and June are the best months, as nature is so exuberant during these times. The route is also well suited. It always combines a more difficult day of walking with a gentler day, so that you don't get too tired.

You will find small hotels, gîtes and campsites aplenty so accommodation is no problem.

The Dordogne and the neighbouring departments of Lot and Lot-et-Garonne have a reputation for being among the most gastronomic in France. If you aren’t familiar with this cuisine, which uses only local products, then you’re in for a treat.

Get ready to taste foie gras or duck breast, Quercy lamb, strawberry or walnut pie. The region’s cheese is not to be outdone with the Cabécou de Rocamadour: a delicious creamy goat cheese. As for the wines, well, there’s the Monbazillac wine which is more suitable for dessert and the Bergerac red wine which is more suitable for dishes with sauce. As a hiker, you’ll certainly be well fueled.

To reach the starting point, you’ll have to take the train to Sarlat, then a bus on line 14 to reach Domme. Another solution is to go directly to the SNCF station in Gourdon. In this case, you can start the itinerary from stage 2.