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In the footsteps of Modestine — the Stevenson Trail (GR 70)

Cyril Soubigou

In the footsteps of Modestine — the Stevenson Trail (GR 70)

Hiking Collection by Fred Urrutia

12-27

days

3-6 h

/ day

173 mi

23,400 ft

25,200 ft

Do you want to live a great adventure on the level of Treasure Island? No need to voyage to the middle of the ocean, there’s already enough to keep you busy in Metropolitan France. Just ask one of the greatest writers of adventure novels, who crossed the current GR 70 in 12 days with his stubborn donkey, Modestine. In that vein, this Collection presents the Stevenson Trail, a great hike that covers 279 kilometres (173 mi).

The journey takes you to the heart of the Velay region and its colourful landscapes that combine volcanic reliefs and agricultural plateaus. Then it’s the turn of the Gévaudan to amaze you with its valleys, forests and marshes. Before reaching the Cevennes valleys, you climb Mont-Lozère, a granite massif that is an exceptional hikers’ playground.

So, why is the GR 70 also called the Stevenson Trail? It’s named after the author Robert Louis Stevenson, who was madly in love with Fanny Osbourne, an American writer who was already married, and set out on a journey to meditate on his destiny. Walking also helped him to alleviate the symptoms of phthisis (tuberculosis). Eventually, he went to California to join her and they married before returning to Europe.

If you want to experience 'Stevenson', there is nothing better than following in his footsteps. You can accompany your adventure by reading his book ‘Journey with a Donkey in the Cevennes’.

Like him, I suggest that you divide the route into 12 stages. To be clear, Stevenson's route is demanding. Not so much for the terrain, which is not very technical, but rather for the distances covered. Long stages follow one another, but you can either take a break in the middle, if you have time, or do the GR 70 in several parts.

Most of the villages along the GR 70 have capitalised on the popularity of the route and offer a range of food and accommodation options. The main thing is that you have water and a handful of energy bars for the day. There are a few exceptions though! The official Stevenson Trail website warns that the following communes do not offer food shopping: Goudet, Luc, Cheylard-l'Evêque, Mirandol, Le Bonnetès, Les Alpiers, Finiels, Mijavols and Cocurès. So remember to get organised and ask for an extra picnic at the previous stage.

The best time to walk the Stevenson Trail is between May and October, as you climb to an otherwise chilly altitude of 1,700 metres (5,577 ft). This walk is quite popular, so book your overnight stays in advance and try to start the trails in the middle of the week.

You can reach the start by train (Puy-en-Velay station) or by plane (Le Puy-en-Velay-Loudes airport). To return, you can take the same means of transport to Nîmes, which you can reach by bus line 112.

Have a good adventure!

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Sur les traces de Modestine — Le chemin de Stevenson (GR 70) Tour complet

172 mi

23,350 ft

25,100 ft

Last updated: October 4, 2022

Plan your own version of this adventure in the multi-day planner based on the stages suggested in this Collection.

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Tours & Highlights

  • Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors

    Stage 1: Puy-en-Velay to Monastier-sur-Gazeille — the Stevenson Trail (GR 70)

    Expert
    05:51
    12.4 mi
    2.1 mph
    2,125 ft
    1,275 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    Welcome to Stevenson's Way! It's the first day of an adventure that will take you 11 days of walking. The adventure begins in Le Puy-en-Velay, where I strongly advise you to take a walk the day before the hike. If you haven't had time, no stress! The route that I am showing you begins at the level of

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  • Expert
    07:08
    15.3 mi
    2.2 mph
    2,350 ft
    1,450 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today you will reach the heart of Velay and you will spend the night at Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas. But for that, you will have to hike 24.7 kilometers with 720 meters of elevation gain.

    

    Starting from Monastier-sur-Gazeille, you can soak your feet in the Gazeille, at the level of the small beach. Then, you

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  • Expert
    05:46
    13.1 mi
    2.3 mph
    975 ft
    1,200 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    This stage of approximately 21 kilometers continues the crossing of the Velay. The entire first part of the path takes place on a long descent. In the middle, you can stop at Landos, a village that offers several services for hikers.

    

    The descent ends just after Arquejols and its stream. Leaving this town

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  • Expert
    06:12
    13.8 mi
    2.2 mph
    1,375 ft
    1,475 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Today, you leave Velay to venture into the second territory of the GR 70: Gévaudan. To start the stage gently, you walk on a bucolic downhill path that takes you to the banks of the Allier and to the heart of Langogne, a town located a few steps from Lake Naussac.

    

    If you have to go shopping, this is where

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  • Expert
    09:23
    20.2 mi
    2.1 mph
    2,625 ft
    2,950 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    This fifth stage is very long: count 32.5 kilometers and 800 meters of well-distributed elevation gain. In this sense, your heart rate will not go up in the clouds, but at the end of the day, fatigue will be your main obstacle. You can very well cut this section in two and sleep in Laveyrune, where there

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  • Expert
    08:38
    18.3 mi
    2.1 mph
    2,750 ft
    2,525 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Another long day on the program, with 29.5 kilometers but, as often on the GR 70, they take place on less technical surfaces. Again, gravel paths and green paths predominate, despite a few short segments on tarmac.

    

    You have just two climbs that will speed up your breathing rate: the first when leaving

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  • Expert
    06:20
    12.2 mi
    1.9 mph
    2,000 ft
    2,675 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    Here you are in the territory of Mont Lozère, the third of the Stevenson path. In this stage of almost 20 kilometers, you walk through this massif with a granite landscape which at times offers views of both the Alps and the Pyrenees.

    

    Today's hike takes you up the climb to the summit of Finiels, the highest

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  • Expert
    08:37
    18.1 mi
    2.1 mph
    2,350 ft
    3,475 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    The eighth day is quite long, with around 29 kilometers, but two thirds are downhill. During the first 10 kilometers, you leave the Pont-de-Montvert and go up to the heights of the plateau. The landscape is quite rural, with views of the surrounding mountains.

    

    Once you reach the Bouges signal, you will

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  • Intermediate
    04:46
    10.6 mi
    2.2 mph
    1,300 ft
    800 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    This is a fairly short stage, at least compared to the others! 17 kilometers separate Florac from Cassagnas, your destination for the day. The route is quite hilly but does not present any particular difficulty. It's a day to enjoy the Cévennes, because yes, you're already there!

    

    Over the kilometers

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  • Expert
    07:11
    15.5 mi
    2.2 mph
    1,550 ft
    3,025 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    The tenth day of walking is 25 kilometers long. That said, almost three quarters of the route is downhill, which will allow you to be less focused on your physical efforts than on the landscapes.

    

    You always walk in the heart of the Cévennes, in the middle of the forest or on the paths of the hills. Around

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  • Intermediate
    04:04
    8.22 mi
    2.0 mph
    1,425 ft
    1,650 ft
    Intermediate Hiking Tour. Good fitness required. Mostly accessible paths. Sure-footedness required.

    This penultimate stage is quite short, just to attack the big “finale” with energy. You have 13 kilometers ahead of you, as a recovery walk. Although it is quite low, you have a hill to climb today, with 500 meters of elevation gain in total for this stage.

    

    Crossing the Gardon de Sainte-Croix river, you

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  • Expert
    07:27
    15.4 mi
    2.1 mph
    2,575 ft
    2,750 ft
    Expert Hiking Tour. Very good fitness required. Easily-accessible paths. Suitable for all skill levels.

    In the 19th century, Robert Louis Stevenson was coming to the end of his journey with his donkey Modestine. Today, it's your turn to complete a wonderful long-distance hiking route. But for that, you still have to walk a few paths. Courage ! You only have a little less than 25 kilometers left.

    

    As it would

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Collection Stats

  • Tours
    12
  • Distance
    173 mi
  • Duration
    81:24 h
  • Elevation
    23,400 ft25,200 ft

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