Alta Via dei Re – a fairytale crossing in Italy’s Maritime Alps

The Alta Via dei Re (Highway of the Kings) leads through the Maritime Alps, following the footsteps of the House of Savoy dynasty. This route runs the length and breadth of the Alpi Marittime Nature Park, a regional park created in 1995 by merging the Argentera Nature Park with the Palanfré Woods and Lakes Reserve. The territory spans the Gesso, Stura and Vermenagna valleys and stretches from Colle della Maddalena to Colle di Tenda. It shares 35 kilometres (21.8 mi) of its border with the Mercantour National Park, its twin since 1987.

Before setting off on this long trek, it’s worth taking a step back in time to understand what links the House of Savoy to the Gesso Valley. It all began in August 1855 when Victor Emmanuel II of Savoy visited Entracque and fell in love with the beautiful area and the abundance of chamois and ibex for hunting. In 1857, he established the Royal Hunting Reserve of Valdieri and Entracque. Buildings, shelters and mule tracks sprung up throughout the Gesso Valley to help the Savoy family travel and stay in the area. These places were for entertainment and also health thanks to the thermal waters at Terme di Valdieri.

The arrival of the House of Savoy enriched the pockets of the valley's municipalities and gave work to many of the valley’s inhabitants. The latter helped construct and maintain the hunting lodges and trails and worked as servants. The area was a hive of activity.

At the start of the Second World War, the relationship between the family and the valley ceased along with the Republic after the 1946 referendum. It wasn’t until 1980 that the Argentera Regional Nature Park was established on the former territories of the Royal Hunting Reserve, an initiative to protect chamois and reintroduce ibexes.

The Alta Via dei Re (Kings' High Road) starts in Sant'Anna di Valdieri and ends in San Giacomo di Entracque. It is good to keep in mind that this expert trek takes leads through high 3,000 metre (9,850 ft) peaks and alpine lakes. It’s important to plan your adventure between mid-July and mid-September as snow covers the highest passes well into summer. Check the weather forecast regularly as setting off in bad conditions could be very dangerous.

All stages end at managed huts where you can stay half-board and, on request, get a packed lunch for the next day. Always book overnight stays in advance, as places are limited. Remember to bring your sleeping bag or liner, a towel and all your personal hygiene needs. The refuges have blankets just in case.

You can reach Sant'Anna di Valdieri from Cuneo with bus line 82. All information on timetables and fares can be found here: grandabus.it/orari-per-codice-linea. Cuneo is just over an hour by train from Turin and the line is operated by Trenitalia.

The park offers a shuttle service between the trek’s start and end points: parcoalpimarittime.it/visita/info-pratiche/la-navetta-del-parco. You can wild camp in the park for a maximum of 48 hours, pitching your tent one hour before sunset and taking it down one hour after sunrise at the latest.