Forests, wild swimming and wildlife – touring from Totnes to Bristol

Whizzing down country lanes, crunching gravel on riverside paths and spending all day outdoors, exploring open countryside and wild spaces – there is little that gives a greater sense of freedom than bike touring.

Packing my panniers felt special for this trip as it had been almost three years since my bike left British soil and rode across Europe to Georgia. The trip felt like a homecoming. It opened my eyes to just how wild and green the UK is, especially in summer.

My trip began with a loose idea of wanting to explore Devon and visit an agroforest close to Totnes on the edges of the Dartmoor National Park. The plan grew to be a five-day trip covering 180 miles (290 km) from Totnes to Bristol; exploring moors, wild camping and swimming in as many rivers as possible along the way.

The journey took me around the edges of Dartmoor, along quiet lanes with jungle-like hedgerows in Devon and through the patchwork fields of the Somerset Levels to Bristol. The stretches along canal towpaths, former railway lines and riverside trails were ideal for switching off and just enjoying pedalling. Aside from the section from Wells to Cheddar, I managed to avoid busy roads. Any kind of bike is suitable for the terrain, although I expect the paths are a lot muddier in the winter.

The hardest part is without doubt the Devonshire hills. It was quite a shock to be faced with so many gruelling climbs the first two days. If you go at your own pace, they’re manageable, but I regretted not being fitter for the first two stages – it was tough. In total, I climbed just under 10,000 feet (3,000 metres) across the five days.

I spent each night in my tent wild camping on the moors and sleeping in fields at farm campsites. For me, sleeping outdoors is all part of the experience of bike touring, but the extra weight did slow me down, especially on the relentless Devonshire hills. It’s easy to find a bed for the night too if you prefer to travel light.

You don’t need to carry much food with you as you’ll always find a farm shop, charming village centre or town to fill up your stomach and your water bottles. I definitely recommend taking a camping stove so that you can brew up a coffee or cook anywhere you choose. Dinner always tastes a little better when you cook it yourself next to a river.

To retrace my tyre marks, you can catch the train to Totnes, a town close to Dartmoor with an alternative Devonshire flair. Returning home from Bristol is also convenient with the train as Temple Meads is well connected to the rest of the UK.

Nature felt so alive in the sunshine – I chased dragonflies down lanes, took breaks under the shade of ancient oaks and watched wild ponies grazing on the moors. If you enjoy being outdoors on your bike in the countryside, this is a lovely route.