Hiking Dorset in a writer's footsteps — the Hardy Way

This exceptionally stunning long-distance footpath takes you through the countryside that inspired Thomas Hardy to write his most famous novels and poetry. At 220 miles (354 km) long, the route offers a comprehensive exploration of Dorset’s wonderful, undulating landscape and will leave you with a strong impression of Hardy’s world, as little seems to have changed in many places.

Situated halfway along England’s south coast, Dorset is a county of mild weather, tremendous coastlines and rural landscapes. More than half of it is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and most of its coastline is part of the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With no cities and only a few large towns, the landscape is instead dedicated to rolling chalk downland, pastoral countryside and gorgeous little villages.

While this hike takes in many of Hardy’s haunts and sites of inspiration, a more extensive history seeps out of the ground. Dorset has been occupied since the Neolithic era and the land is littered with remnants of ancient history. Long barrows, tumuli, castles, dykes and hillforts are so numerous you simply can’t avoid them. With museums in several locations, it’s not difficult to delve into the history of this magnificent area.

The Hardy Way begins at Hardy’s Cottage, the writer’s birthplace and a beautiful thatched house just to the east of Dorchester. You hike east through plantations and across the River Piddle to Bere Regis and its neighbouring heathland. Then, the path promptly heads seawards, taking you across rural landscapes to the phenomenal Lulworth Cove. This section of coastline has geological marvel after geological marvel. If you have time, spending a full day exploring the immediate area is wonderful, particularly as Durdle Door is just around the corner.

From Kimmeridge Bay, the Way leads you north into the glorious landscape of the Isle of Purbeck, a large peninsula. Much of this area has recently been transformed into a ‘super-reserve’ and comprises multiple thriving habitats for rare birds, insects and wildlife. Here, you’ll find the mighty Corfe Castle atop its hill.

Heathlands take you to the historic market town of Wareham and up across serene landscapes to another market town; Wimborne Minster. From here, hike to Badbury Rings, an Iron Age hillfort in impressive shape. The trail loops north and enters Cranborne Chase AONB and the West Wiltshire Downs.

Winding across the fantastically peaceful landscape to the south west, you see old churches, thatched farmhouses, chuckling rivers and vibrant woodlands. Eventually, the Way brings you through Bridport and back to the coast at West Bay. Head south east to the extraordinary Isle of Portland and the famous Chesil Beach. After looping this dramatic headland and taking in a chalk horse hillside carving, the trail leads back up to Dorchester, to Max Gate, Hardy’s home of 40 years. Finally, the hike culminates just to the north at Stinsford churchyard, where the writer’s heart is buried with his wife (his body lying at Westminster Abbey).

Dorset is a place of mild weather which means you can walk this route, or any sections of it, throughout the year. However, visitor numbers fluctuate with the seasons so you might find that some cafes, accommodation and attractions are only open for the warmer half of the year. On top of this, this charming landscape is best seen in spring and summer, thanks to its abundance of wildlife and verdant nature.

Much of the hike is rural and while accommodation is plentiful in the area, particularly in spring and summer, you may need to deviate towards the end of stages to reach a place to stay. There’s only one section where timing is important; the army operates live firing ranges on the coast around Worbarrow Bay and Kimmeridge. This means that you can only walk this section on a weekend or bank holiday. You should also keep to the footpath, pay attention to signage and not approach anything that looks remotely like an explosive (the paths are kept clear).

Dorchester benefits from two train stations, with trains to Bournemouth, Southampton and London. You can also catch the train to Yeovil for destinations such as Bristol and the South West. The Yeovil line is a different station than the London line, although they are closeby. To reach the start at Hardy’s Cottage, take a taxi or catch the 187 bus from South Station to King’s Pond (Blandford direction) and use the footpath that heads south then east on the south side of the A35. A fast road, care should be taken when walking the short distance on the verge here.