Mae Hong Son Loop – a bikepacking adventure through the Thai mountains

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a well-known bikepacking route in northern Thailand that stretches 660 kilometres (410 mi) through the provinces of Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son. You ride through tropical landscapes with high mountains and spectacular views of valleys, rice fields and rivers. It’s among one of the most beautiful multi-day road bike routes in the World.

The further you ride from the larger cities like Chiang Mai, the quieter the roads become. On the way, you pass small villages with colourful markets and beautifully decorated Buddhist temples. Count on plenty of elevation gain; you’re riding in the mountainous north of Thailand. The views of the many rice fields that sparkle in the light of the rising sun make the climbs more than worth it.

I rode this route in February 2018. It was my first multi-day ride in a faraway destination. Because Thailand is relatively easy to travel, I recommend this route to novice bikepackers. The tourist infrastructure is good, with plenty of accommodation and restaurants, where of course you can sample delicious Thai food.

Despite this, tourists on the route are few and far between. Beyond Chiang Mai and Pai, you mostly share the roads through the spectacular landscape with locals. In my opinion, cycling is the best way to escape touristy Thailand. From the saddle, far from the crowds, you really get to know this beautiful country.

The Mae Hong Song Loop is completely paved with tight asphalt and is cyclable on a road bike with tyres as narrow as 25 mm. You might want something a bit wider though to make sure you’re comfortable. I rode on 45 mm, which meant I could sometimes make an unpaved detour, which definitely comes recommended!

I rode this trip in seven days and skipped Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in the country, due to a stomach illness. If you have the courage and feel bike fit enough, I’d definitely add this peak to the Mae Hong Son loop. For that, check out the Full Tour and read my description of Tour 7. The best travel time is between November and March. Outside of those dates, you may encounter extreme heat or heavy rain.

Finally, Chiang Mai, the start and end point of the route, is also worth a special mention. I visited this city several years in a row for good reason: Chiang Mai has perhaps the greatest cycling culture in Asia. There are several bicycle-friendly accommodation options that have plenty of information about the area and nearby routes through the mountains. I enjoyed staying at Vanilla Residence, which is equipped with top-notch workshop and bike rental. I regularly joined group rides with other cycling clubs and pros from the Thai peloton with the owner, Prin (instagram.com/vanillaresidence) and cycling guide Shanika (instagram.com/chani_ka).

All this makes the Mae Hong Song Loop and Chiang Mai the ideal escape for your next winter! Have fun and don't forget to say hi to Prin and Shanika.