Potsdam - Havel - Elbe - Müritz-Elde-Wasserstraße - Müritz - Havel - PotsdamSchon seit Jahren hat sie mir im Kopf herumgegeistert - die (fast) komplette Befahrung der Havel und zugleich eine Rundstrecke von Berlin aus, um möglichst autark unterwegs zu sein. Weil niemand im Ruderverein so verrückt war, passte das mit dem Erwerb des Faltbootes wunderbar. Idee war, in Potsdam an der »Seerose« in See zu stechen und zu schauen, wie weit wir kommen. ÖPNV gibt es eigentlich überall, so dass wir mit dem Faltboot unproblematisch zurückgekommen wären.Das Wetter war überaus gnädig - wir hatten fast keinen Regen. Es hat uns erlaubt, mit geringstem Gepäck unterwegs zu sein – ich hatte noch nicht einmal Schuhe dabei. Dreieinhalb Wochen barfuß, dreieinhalb Wochen draußen, dreieinhalb traumhafte Wochen auf dem Wasser.
Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/editOn Sunday, August 2, 2020 it should still rain a little - so we didn't go out on the water until around 3 p.m. It should have been almost the only rain on the tour for three and a half weeks.From the Havel bay it went to the Havel to the southwest and over the Templiner See. Via the Petzinsee and the Wentorfgraben we went back to the Havel towards Werder, where we took a short break. We have been following the Havel to the north-northwest since Geltow without noticing a great current. The sky is overcast and we are only accompanied by a few motorboats.In Ketzin, our tried and tested contact point is the tent meadow at the lido in Ketzin, where I first read about the great trip around the Havel. There was also an option to camp wild on the Havel, but then the idea won out for a pizza in the beautiful Trattoria Fontana, where we had already eaten very well a few days earlier. We were even alone at the campsite.
Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020If the first day was still mixed, it is now "imperial weather" - lots of sunshine with few clouds. We paddle the Havel downstream towards Brandenburg with almost no events. Several possible bivouacs appear to us on various islands and on the shore. We enjoy the peace just a few kilometers from Berlin; unfortunately occasionally interrupted by motor boats. The goal of the day is the campsite at the "Alte Feuerwache", a caravan site with a small tent field. It's a little more urban again.
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Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020Actually, we wanted to approach the day a little more slowly. Opposite the old fire station there was initially a shopping center with a pier to store the next supplies. Then we paddled down the Havel from Brandenburg.We crossed the Breitlingsee in a really good wind from east to west, in order to get between the islands to the north to Plauer See. There it went further north via Plaue. From the islands the wind eased. Already well in the afternoon we sat down north of Plaue for a lunch break - hardly suspecting that we had only reached half of the daily target. But the landscape to the north made up for the paddling efforts again and again.But then it worried us that there shouldn't be a kiosk in Pritzerbe where we could get a beer. Two kilometers further we decided to lock over the barge lock - we weren't sure whether the big lock would take us on its own. So another two kilometers more ... after all, the lock over the barge lock was very funny. And then we met a couple of night anglers in the Havel loop in front of the bivouac site, who willingly gave us two cool (!) Beers when we asked. Seldom have they done so well.
It is still very warm. From our bivouac site we paddle the Havel further north and are glad that we avoided the Göttlin bivouac site - it was very full and very loud during the night, we will be told later in Grütz. There at the bivouac site we bunker fresh water at the machine.The Grütz lock is huge - we are locked in two more paddle boats. The midday sun accumulates in the underwater in front of the gate, so that an oven welcomes us there. When we discover the beach in Schollene, we use it for a spontaneous lunch break - and then set up our bivouac there.Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020
Part 6 of our Havelumfahrt, komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020After a wonderful night under the starry sky on the sandy beach of Schollene, the Havel heads north. Lots of landscape, few towns on the edge. We are accompanied by bright sunshine and little wind; the Havel is as smooth as a mirror.
The Gülper Havel branches off at Molkenberg. Here in the current compass atlas (2020!) The "Molkenberg self-service lock" is shown, of which only the foundation walls still exist.At the bivouac site in Gülpe we take a short break and fill the water bag at the churchyard. We only treat ourselves to a proper lunch break opposite Vehlgast when we discover a sandy beach there. It's a good 10 km to Havelberg.We are considering mooring on an island just before Havelberg and bivouacking there - but somehow the thought of a cold beer with a pizza and a proper shower after three wild nights lures us.Since the campsite in Havelberg does not want to accept day tourists (cyclists and water hikers) - allegedly because of bad behavior - the rowing club is ideal. The tents are packed here, but the showers are great and there is also a cheap beer. Thank you!Only the pizza turned into inner-city gyros.
Another oppressively hot day. We had hoped that the Elbe would support us with a little current and that we would slide within hours to the mouth of the Eldemitz in Dömitz. In the end, the flow speed was almost 2 km / h more than on the Havel, the river had such a low water level.Around noon we had to flee the water into the shade, the heat was so oppressive. In the evening we found a groyne for the tent just before Wittenberge. Car tracks made us hope that we haven't stayed in a nature reserve here yet.
Part 11 of our water hike. The waterway leads variedly through meadows, fields and forests. The best part of the day was from the Grabow lock.It is incomprehensible to me how, like in Grabow, you keep putting mobile home parks on the water and equipping them with sanitary facilities, but can forget the real water hikers with tents and boats. The result is a concrete desert.Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020
Part 12 of the Havelumfahrt komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020. From the junction to Schwerin it got a bit crowded, but we didn't meet more than ten boats during the day. In Neustadt there is a very nice little marina for mooring and camping. The Garwitz lock is very slow, we had to wait an hour.
Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020This stage is a bit uneventful, apart from the Bobziner lock with a 7m lift. The traffic with sports boats becomes noticeably denser from Lübz. In Plau am See, the water hiking rest area is well hidden behind a grating ramp. Now you have reached a tourist stronghold - a small culture shock after a week of loneliness since Havelberg (komoot.de/tour/235446083).Since we didn't want to get the boat out of the grating ramp, we drove further to the Plauer See. When the sun was setting, we reached the camping park "Zuruf", where we happened to meet someone at the reception. They welcomed us very happily and in a friendly manner, so that we could pitch our tents with a beer and in the last can light.
Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020The stage began with a crossing of the Plauer See. On the east bank is a small and very flat communal swimming area. From the entry into the Petersdorfer See the motorboat density increases again noticeably - I felt 1000, but at least 100 boats came across. The fact that they all let the fenders out without exception shows the sad success of the “charter license”. Very few people know that they have to go slowly with small boats.Petersdorfer, Malchower Flesensee and Kölpinsee are unfortunately quite noisy, especially since there is no speed limit on the last two.But - suddenly around 6:30 p.m., all of the chub boats leave the water. Do they then have to go back to Mutti's table (there are only men with these boats)?
Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020The first rainy day after 16 days. On the Müritz I'm practically alone, always along the nature conservation barrels. With a little tailwind, the rain doesn't bother much.After the lunch break, I love the Bolter Canal with its crystal clear water. At the transfer point they say there is a very heavy car there - the two of us were just able to move it out of the water. There is a roller at the insertion point, but it goes steeply into the water.Another dream is the chain of lakes up to the Leppinsee. Still, clear water - I would like to just stay.
Sad farewell. The noise of the big city has us again - opposite the friendly comrades from the KC Albatros there is a large kitchen and the Berlin port operations.We paddle through the contemplative "Little Venice" back to the Havel. With a good headwind, it goes past the Grunewald Tower to the Wannsee. We have a last lunch break at the “Alter Hof” bathing area, before we pass the Potsdam World Heritage Sites in heavy motorboat traffic and return to Neustädter Havel Bay, where we started 24 days earlier.The reception was huge and immediately made up for the fact that we - on the last few meters after 591 km! - brought another chunky motorboat very out of balance. Noun it omen?Thank you for this nice reception with children and cones, flowers and beer!Entire tour: komoot.de/collection/1005268/-havelumfahrt-2020